Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got genuine Nissan ones from justjap in the last 12 months for the front of my 2000 C34 S2 RS4, I tried after market ones that a few members have recommended only to find out that the taper is incorrect. The genuine ones only cost about $100.00 each, I can't put my finger on the part number at the moment but justjap will sort it out for you. Mine were flogged out too. Regards Craig

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428270-tie-rod-ends/#findComment-6920096
Share on other sites

I use genuine ones aswell and i can confirm that the tie rod ends listed at auto stores are the wrong taper

34 Gtr ones are the correct taper but are to short.

So genuine it is , use search function the part number is on hear somewhere

Cheers

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428270-tie-rod-ends/#findComment-6920119
Share on other sites

Should be one of these (haven't had to buy one myself yet):

3 different tie rods outers for Stageas, depending on model, year, 4wd/2wd, MT/AT etc

48520-0cu25(2wd)

48520-15u25(4wd)

48520-23u25(4wd)

2 different for R33, both are same part # as 2 of the 3 Stagea tie rods.

48520-15u25(2wd)

48520-23u25(4wd)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428270-tie-rod-ends/#findComment-6921869
Share on other sites

I found my invoice from JustJap. The correct part number is 48520-23U26 this is the genuine part number I got from Nissan which supersedes previous part numbers. I have had them on my 2000 C34 S2 RS Four Auto since November 2012 last year with no problems, as I stated before the aftermarket ones do not fit, they are dangerous as they feel like they pull up into the taper but there is insufficient clearance underneath leaving very little angle to pivot correctly and they flog out very quickly, I had them on the car for only a week waiting for the genuine ones to arrive and when I fitted the genuine ones, the aftermarket ones were worse than the ones I was replacing in the first place, the only good thing was they practically fell out of the taper when I undid the top nut! I hope this makes it clear re the correct part number, for info, they cost me $190.00 for the pair in November 2012 when I picked them up and Dan from Just Jap was extremely helpful. Craig

Edited by Zedhead70
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428270-tie-rod-ends/#findComment-6922482
Share on other sites

Ha ha was just looking through my receipts and zedhead hit the nail on the head that's the correct 1 and only part number for s1and s2 rs4 , a lot of the other aftermarket part company's will tell you other ones will fit but they won't they have the same size taper as a 34gtr i think 14mm but are a lot shorter in the shank .where as the ones listed at part dealers have a 12mm (too small) taper like 33/34 gtt but are correct shaft length ,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428270-tie-rod-ends/#findComment-6922575
Share on other sites

I got these a while ago for my Series 2, 4WD. The suspension place said they were Identical to the originals and only $60 a pair. Quality seems to be good too.

You can email the seller to confirm fitment. From memory the packaging said made in Taiwan.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-OUTER-TIE-ROD-END-Set-NISSAN-STAGEA-4WD-96-01-/190638900925

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428270-tie-rod-ends/#findComment-6922651
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

I guys just to clarify, does  48520-23U26 suit both the passenger and drivers side?

 

The guy at Nissan Spares today wasn't sure and said he cant get them.

He also said 48520-23U25 supersedes the above part, can get them, presently $150.79 landed in Aus.

(i think he got his superseding back the front :).

 

I was planning to get 48520-23U26, in reference to advice above and also i found these at Kudos.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/outer-front-nissan-skyline-stagea-wgnc34-260rs-25tx-four-four-four-p-1090.html

Cheers,

Pete

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428270-tie-rod-ends/#findComment-7833100
Share on other sites

Thanks Tom,

Is yours series 1 or series 2?

Using my vin to search on my S2 RS4V AWD (11/98) they came back as 48520-23U25, so in turn I have ordered 48520-23U26 which is the newer part.

Now crossing fingers I have the correct part :).

Ditto on genuine.

Cheers,

Pete

Edited by Stagea_Neo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428270-tie-rod-ends/#findComment-7833730
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drive beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...