Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok first post so i'll make this quick,

When welding or grub screwing the vct oil feed shut on the R33 head and making up an external oil feed for the vct, can i use an rb30 headgasket and put it together using the rb25 head bolts?
Then put it all back together then good to go?
My reason for asking is because in this guide he shows in the second or third photo a bit that has been welded on for seating the rb25 head gasket?

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R33_head.htm

Is there any benefits using the 25 gasket?


Also with running the motor in, is it best to drive it softly for 1000ks (or whatever is recommended) with mineral oil then dyno tune it or tow it and chuck it straight on the dyno?

If driving it for 1000ks i will be using all the stock bolt ons rather than the upgraded items

I am using an RB25 head gasket. Run it in on the dyno - no softly softly stuff (assuming tuner will not thrash it to death). Then dump oil and refill and drive normally watching oil pressure and temps and checking for leaks.

Ok first post so i'll make this quick,

When welding or grub screwing the vct oil feed shut on the R33 head and making up an external oil feed for the vct, can i use an rb30 headgasket and put it together using the rb25 head bolts?
Then put it all back together then good to go?
My reason for asking is because in this guide he shows in the second or third photo a bit that has been welded on for seating the rb25 head gasket?

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R33_head.htm

Is there any benefits using the 25 gasket?


Also with running the motor in, is it best to drive it softly for 1000ks (or whatever is recommended) with mineral oil then dyno tune it or tow it and chuck it straight on the dyno?

If driving it for 1000ks i will be using all the stock bolt ons rather than the upgraded items

I am using an RB25 head gasket. Run it in on the dyno - no softly softly stuff (assuming tuner will not thrash it to death). Then dump oil and refill and drive normally watching oil pressure and temps and checking for leaks.

did you weld the block for more sealing surface in that coolant gallery or is it not as bad as it looks in that photo?

In regards to the break in procedure I've always believed in this guys procedure-

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Makes a lot of sense to do it that way. Seems a little heavy handed but he's done a lot of research to show that it works.

^^

Yep. Start, check for leaks. None? Sweet! Get on the dyno and load it up. Gave it back to me and went belting through the hills. 3rd and 4th gear pulls up hills to 6500 rpm. 3 days later at the last years nationals, Wakefield park and airport runs.

Basically gave it as much load as I could give it from as early as possible.

Last engine was run in very similar. Never breathed a drop of oil.

Running in as per Piggaz's post above has been the correct procedure for at least the last 30 - 40 years (on dyno or road) - anyone telling you to take it "softly" is way out of touch.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Anyone ever done this ^

Im going to be running one in soon the old 1000ks softly way but that kinda looks to me like i better have a spare 30 block just incase haha

Ok first post so i'll make this quick,

When welding or grub screwing the vct oil feed shut on the R33 head and making up an external oil feed for the vct, can i use an rb30 headgasket and put it together using the rb25 head bolts?

Then put it all back together then good to go?

My reason for asking is because in this guide he shows in the second or third photo a bit that has been welded on for seating the rb25 head gasket?

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R33_head.htm

Is there any benefits using the 25 gasket?

Also with running the motor in, is it best to drive it softly for 1000ks (or whatever is recommended) with mineral oil then dyno tune it or tow it and chuck it straight on the dyno?

If driving it for 1000ks i will be using all the stock bolt ons rather than the upgraded items

Ok first post so i'll make this quick,

When welding or grub screwing the vct oil feed shut on the R33 head and making up an external oil feed for the vct, can i use an rb30 headgasket and put it together using the rb25 head bolts?

Then put it all back together then good to go?

My reason for asking is because in this guide he shows in the second or third photo a bit that has been welded on for seating the rb25 head gasket?

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R33_head.htm

Is there any benefits using the 25 gasket?

Also with running the motor in, is it best to drive it softly for 1000ks (or whatever is recommended) with mineral oil then dyno tune it or tow it and chuck it straight on the dyno?

If driving it for 1000ks i will be using all the stock bolt ons rather than the upgraded items

go for an internal vct feed and use NEW rb25head bolts

go for an internal vct feed and use NEW rb25head bolts

I've heard mixed things about this method, mainly that it has the possibility of starving other components when the pressure is required for VCT? It sure would be a tidier method, anyone with experience on this have some input?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
×
×
  • Create New...