Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Head Modification And Running In Question


33turbo
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ok first post so i'll make this quick,

When welding or grub screwing the vct oil feed shut on the R33 head and making up an external oil feed for the vct, can i use an rb30 headgasket and put it together using the rb25 head bolts?
Then put it all back together then good to go?
My reason for asking is because in this guide he shows in the second or third photo a bit that has been welded on for seating the rb25 head gasket?

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R33_head.htm

Is there any benefits using the 25 gasket?


Also with running the motor in, is it best to drive it softly for 1000ks (or whatever is recommended) with mineral oil then dyno tune it or tow it and chuck it straight on the dyno?

If driving it for 1000ks i will be using all the stock bolt ons rather than the upgraded items

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am using an RB25 head gasket. Run it in on the dyno - no softly softly stuff (assuming tuner will not thrash it to death). Then dump oil and refill and drive normally watching oil pressure and temps and checking for leaks.

Ok first post so i'll make this quick,

When welding or grub screwing the vct oil feed shut on the R33 head and making up an external oil feed for the vct, can i use an rb30 headgasket and put it together using the rb25 head bolts?
Then put it all back together then good to go?
My reason for asking is because in this guide he shows in the second or third photo a bit that has been welded on for seating the rb25 head gasket?

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R33_head.htm

Is there any benefits using the 25 gasket?


Also with running the motor in, is it best to drive it softly for 1000ks (or whatever is recommended) with mineral oil then dyno tune it or tow it and chuck it straight on the dyno?

If driving it for 1000ks i will be using all the stock bolt ons rather than the upgraded items

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am using an RB25 head gasket. Run it in on the dyno - no softly softly stuff (assuming tuner will not thrash it to death). Then dump oil and refill and drive normally watching oil pressure and temps and checking for leaks.

did you weld the block for more sealing surface in that coolant gallery or is it not as bad as it looks in that photo?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^

Yep. Start, check for leaks. None? Sweet! Get on the dyno and load it up. Gave it back to me and went belting through the hills. 3rd and 4th gear pulls up hills to 6500 rpm. 3 days later at the last years nationals, Wakefield park and airport runs.

Basically gave it as much load as I could give it from as early as possible.

Last engine was run in very similar. Never breathed a drop of oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Running in as per Piggaz's post above has been the correct procedure for at least the last 30 - 40 years (on dyno or road) - anyone telling you to take it "softly" is way out of touch.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Anyone ever done this ^

Im going to be running one in soon the old 1000ks softly way but that kinda looks to me like i better have a spare 30 block just incase haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok first post so i'll make this quick,

When welding or grub screwing the vct oil feed shut on the R33 head and making up an external oil feed for the vct, can i use an rb30 headgasket and put it together using the rb25 head bolts?

Then put it all back together then good to go?

My reason for asking is because in this guide he shows in the second or third photo a bit that has been welded on for seating the rb25 head gasket?

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R33_head.htm

Is there any benefits using the 25 gasket?

Also with running the motor in, is it best to drive it softly for 1000ks (or whatever is recommended) with mineral oil then dyno tune it or tow it and chuck it straight on the dyno?

If driving it for 1000ks i will be using all the stock bolt ons rather than the upgraded items

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok first post so i'll make this quick,

When welding or grub screwing the vct oil feed shut on the R33 head and making up an external oil feed for the vct, can i use an rb30 headgasket and put it together using the rb25 head bolts?

Then put it all back together then good to go?

My reason for asking is because in this guide he shows in the second or third photo a bit that has been welded on for seating the rb25 head gasket?

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R33_head.htm

Is there any benefits using the 25 gasket?

Also with running the motor in, is it best to drive it softly for 1000ks (or whatever is recommended) with mineral oil then dyno tune it or tow it and chuck it straight on the dyno?

If driving it for 1000ks i will be using all the stock bolt ons rather than the upgraded items

go for an internal vct feed and use NEW rb25head bolts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

go for an internal vct feed and use NEW rb25head bolts

I've heard mixed things about this method, mainly that it has the possibility of starving other components when the pressure is required for VCT? It sure would be a tidier method, anyone with experience on this have some input?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'll chime in here with my experience. Motec is great if you have the money and know a good person to support you. They don't really offer retail support and the dealers make SFA margin on the product, so the business model is setup for you to be supported by a dealer. I'm lucky enough to know a guy who's ex Motec and very generous with his time and is a total boffin. In addition to that, I also use Brad Sherriff who's an absolute legend to work with. The downside to Motec is the software isn't very intuitive, pay to play, poor/limited online support and costly upgrades.  I've not owned an Emtron myself but a good friend runs a performance workshop in Melbourne who is an Emtron dealer. They won't be fitting any more to customer cars because of the poor level of knowledge within the Emtron support team and lack of ability to solve issues with the platform. Not to mention the circumstances around the establishment of the product and company in the first place. I've run Motec's since the old M8's back in the early 2000's so I'm certainly not without a bias but I look at it like this. Everyone acknowledges Motec as the best consumer grade product without spending mega dollars on Bosch Motorsport / Life Racing and so on. When you consider the real cost of your car (not what you tell your mrs) the cost difference between an Emtron and a Motec is tiny, why would you compromise over a few hundred dollars?
    • Closer to getting the shit box back on the road. That long hose, took 2 months to acquire. However the rest were all already to go same week I ordered them. For those playing at home, that long hose is for a RB25DE N/A motor, as they don't run a water/oil heat exchanger, the hoses underneath the plenum are much more elegant and not a maze of shit.
    • One thing you may be able to leverage is the fact that the R34 N/A has the same setup as a S15. The S15 also is a car that gets 350Z diff swapped, so they will also likely have this problem. The caveat of course is it's possible the dash is different between the R34 NA and the S15, but the subframe/sensors/axles/diff setup are the same. I can't remember now as it's been too long, but I don't generally think people need to swap dashes between the N/A dash and the turbo dash when they do things like change the gearbox out, turbo their car, manual swap it, it's just not something I've seen mentioned so this could be compatible.
×
×
  • Create New...