Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

as my r34 25det neo spun a bearing last week, I am going to be building a 25/30.

I will be using the following parts in my build,

JE pistons 86.5mm

Spool RB30det rods

ACL race series bearings

Crank collar for oil pump drive

Nitto Headgasket

Supertech valves, guides, retainers, springs

Camtech 272' cams

Bosch 1000cc injectors

Garrett GT35r .82 rear

6Boost exhaust manifold

Slide Industries Intake plenum

I'm hoping for a reliable power output of around 500-550rwhp.

I am still searching for information on how people have disabled VCT, is it as simple as welding up the hole?

so if anyone has any information please share :)

Thanks

Corey

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429221-rb30det-build/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

With the cams I'll be running I wont be able to run VCT anyway, as for the oil pump ill probably end up with a new standard rb25 pump with a billet gearset :)

thanks guys

Why not change the cams then, if you are only running a GT35R surely tomei type b 260s would be a good match and you can keep the VCT. I am looking into doing something similar. A few people on here seem to be getting great results from the HTA range of turbos in terms of better response and top end power compared to the standard garretts.

My RB25 Neo is running fine at the moment and I am looking at getting one of the HTA GT35Rs and putting that on and then later down the track building up an RB30 bottom end as the 35R might be a bit laggy on the standard 2.5, even being the HTA version. But from what I read the VCT is a good thing so just something to keep in mind, a lot of the guys in the RB30 conversion thread try to keep the VCT.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429221-rb30det-build/#findComment-6961931
Share on other sites

That's exactly the same spec's as my motor

Accept mine has a standard bottom end & made 380kw at 17psi on 98octane.

keep in mind i had 3 broken ring lands at the time so loosing compression in those cylinders.

you should be able to crack way over 400kw easily.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429221-rb30det-build/#findComment-6965323
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

okay guys, well I have received my block and head back from the machinist, I have restricted both oil feeds in the block to 1.5mm feeds, the head has been ported and had a service with the new valves, springs, retainers, and cams. the block was bored to 86.5mm and drilled and tapped for the extra tensioner as well as a crank collar fitted.

I'll add some pics in the next few days :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429221-rb30det-build/#findComment-6976704
Share on other sites

Hi there, it will be used as my daily with the occasional track events, as for engine builders I'm not exactly sure where your from, RIPS always seem to build some porn looking motors but I've gone with a local engine builder so I'm not really familiar with who else is out there, usually a machinist shop is a good place to ask or your local import specialist will have a good idea

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429221-rb30det-build/#findComment-6990751
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...