Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've been searching for months with no answer or question the same as mine.

I want to nistune an r34 ecu and use it in a s1 manual converted rs4 Stagea. Is it possible to use the nistuned neo ecu on a non neo engine? If the pins were corrected and all running to the correct parts.

The reason why I want to use a nistune is that it's cheap, and rarely f**k up.

I've read threads on piggy backs like emu and adaptronic etc getting confused with the standard computer and some have even blown engines. And I don't really want to use a standalone like pfc and adap etc because they're expensive brand new and a gamble when second hand.

Any help :)

Should work. I'm running a G4 Link R34 neo model in my rB30/25 which has a S2 R33 head and associated sensors. The CAS on the Neo is wired back to front compared with the R33 CAS so you may need to check the connections but I can't see any reason why it shouldn't work.

I run a 34 nistune comp in a s1 manual conversion but with a neo engine , the problem you will run into is that the air con and abs also run through the s1 comp.

I run a 34 nistune comp in a s1 manual conversion but with a neo engine , the problem you will run into is that the air con and abs also run through the s1 comp.

?? My aircond and ABS work fine.

ours is an 0v300 kiwi, they're almost identical with some 34 ecu's, i think it's just a ground for the ignition thats different. All theory though

ok so in theory, you can nistune the s2 rb and the neo just has more sensors that you just discard?

ours is an 0v300 kiwi, they're almost identical with some 34 ecu's, i think it's just a ground for the ignition thats different. All theory though

ok so in theory, you can nistune the s2 rb and the neo just has more sensors that you just discard?

Yep mine was an OV300 - to install a Link you take out the board and put the Link in the same case so all the pinouts are reused. I didn't do the install but the only thing I know for sure is that he had to run a wire from the TPS for the Attessa but with an R34 ecu the only thing I can think of is the traction control which may trigger a fault code but that can be got around.

So really a link g4 is an internal piggy back system mating in with the original mother board, much like using a emanage and piggy backing it on the out side ! ? ! Which does not help this blokes question . Like I said I run a neo comp in my s1 yes it has a neo in it so engine wise was not a problem but I had to alter my loom as the some of the body loom runs through the Ecu I.E . Air con and abs the abs on the a s1 and s2 are diffrent units using diff pin outs and diff sig voltages. And air con as well .

Ahh I see the g4 is a stand alone mother board ! But there must be some tweaking for the air con ect be interesting to see or talk to some one who actually did it , from a quick read I see they have had some probs in 34gtrs with the air con being a hot feed and draining the battery on them . Fairly expensive unit,

I have JUST ! fitted my HKS FCON GTT R34 Piggy back into the stock S1 Stagea ECU .

It works and so far seems that it runs everything OK .

So a Nistune board fitted to a GTT ECU SHOULD need no alterations BUT it is never straight forward !! EG I did not connect the extra ECU earth wire to start with !! and the Rev counter spluttered !! - earth fitted and ALL OK .

Initially i had 2 pin out diagrams for the GTT and RS4 , they were not the same !!!! - before i cut the 4 wires that were needed i fitted it , AND IT RAN !!

So the pin outs stated it was not the same but it was - I have since read that there are 3 ECU`s fitted to the S1 Stagea , i will check what code mine is - for now it is an Hitachi on an RS4 1996 Stagea running RB25DET .

the car is booked in to have a tune - this is going to be an experiment as the Tuner says he will attempt to map the stock ECU ( he knows the " you can`t tune saying !! " ) , we will see on the 12th of this month .

As for running a NEO engine and not the RB , all i can say is mine is running on all 6 and it is fitted with an Fcon piggy back for a GTT R34 Skyline in an S1 Stagea with an RB engine .......

  • 2 weeks later...

Gtt ecu will tune a non neo fine.

Gtt ecu Should work in a s1 with a 5 spd, so I bought a box on Friday, and got a friends auto gtt ecu to tune once I've got the rest of the manual parts.

A gtt auto ecu will work in any stag with a triptronic box.

This works out ALOT better than an aftermarket ecu.

  • 2 years later...

Thread dig,

I'm running a r34 gtt ecu in my s1 stagea. Attessa has never worked since having the car, ecu was already installed and running. My original ecu was a 0v310. What would 8 need to do to get the awd working? Ac has never worked either. Those are the only things left

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...