Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you took off the dump, you should replace all the turbo --> dump studs given the level of heat they are exposed too. Did you replace the gasket?

Also, remember to reset your ECU.

Its probably worth giving the sensor a good dose of Penetrene or something similar to try and loosen the thread... I would have thought a combination of socket + universal joint + extensions and maybe a breaker bar on the rathchet, would have gotten it off.

For the record, IIRC the R32 GT-R sensors require a 17mm socket/spanner. I think Wilch indicated earlier that the EL one was a 21mm: was there much play in the 22mm Gordon?

Cheers,

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1377989
Share on other sites

If you took off the dump, you should replace all the turbo --> dump studs given the level of heat they are exposed too. Did you replace the gasket?

Also, remember to reset your ECU.

Its probably worth giving the sensor a good dose of Penetrene or something similar to try and loosen the thread... I would have thought a combination of socket + universal joint + extensions and maybe a breaker bar on the rathchet, would have gotten it off.

For the record, IIRC the R32 GT-R sensors require a 17mm socket/spanner. I think Wilch indicated earlier that the EL one was a 21mm: was there much play in the 22mm Gordon?

Gasket is copper and looked to be in good condition, so left it. It probably should be replaced, but I am pulling the current turbo off and replacing it all in a couple of months anyhow.

22mm is perfect fit.. 21mm is too small.

well for the record, I think it has done sweet F.A. for my fuel consumption.. just last day 8L for 50km (16L/100km ) which is on par as previously.. Reset the ECU too. We'll see how it goes over time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1378747
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
What about the Heat sensor on the cat. does it play a similiar role to the O2 sensor? If thhe heat sensor is removed what could be the consequences?

That has already been done to death earlier in this thread. The sensor in the cat does not affect fuel mixtures: its merely to warn you that the cat is fscking hot and not to go parking on a flammable surface.

LW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1400957
Share on other sites

I just changed my O2 sensor today. When I was removing the old one, I realised the previous owner must have changed it b4, cos it had 2 white wires & 1 black wire, & was the Bosch brand.

Upon removal, the O2 sensor looked really crapped. Replaced it with the new EL O2 sensor, which happened to have 2 white wires & 1 black too. I have resetted the ECU... let's hope the fuel economy gets better!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1413317
Share on other sites

Sorry the format is so cruddy. Anyone know if I can use a table? HTML tags don't seem to do any good.

Try cut and pasting it to an editor that recognises tabs. It's easier to read.

Nissan Part numbers for front oxygen sensors (flat 3 pin plug)

Part Number Engine Applicable dates

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

22690-05U21 RB26DTT 8908-9108

RB26DETT 9108-

22690-17B00 RB20E 8905-9108

22690-01P00 RB20E 9108 -

22690-27M00 CA18I 8905-

22690-72L00 RB20D 8905-9108

RB20DE 9108-

22690-73L11 RB20DT 8905-9108

RB25DE 9108-

RB20DET 9108-

Nissan part number for rear oxygen sensor (square 4 pin plug)

22690-05U22 RB26DTT 8908-9108

RB26DETT 9108-

A front oxygen sensor (probably original) from a RB26DTT had the following details:

Approx 46cm from the gasket to the end of the plastic plug, NTK D2F printed on the sensor,

3483 stamped on the sensor nut

A rear oxygen sensor (probably original) from a RB26DTT had the following details:

Approx 50cm from the gasket to the end of the plastic plug, NTK D2F printed on the sensor,

35F8 (possible 35F3) stamped on the sensor nut

The number stamped on the nut is probably a batch number.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1415851
Share on other sites

OK. Here are some more numbers and facts. Please correct if necessary - and this is ONLY for the R32 GTR.

The Nissan part number for the front O2 sensor is 22690-05U21 ($253.85 from Nissan)

The Nissan part number for the rear O2 sensor is 22690-05U22 ($271.70 from Nissan).

My front O2 sensor has a length of approx 56cm, and has a flat 3 pin plug with 3 used

My rear O2 sensor has a length of approx 46cm, and has a square 4 pin plug with 3 used

(Note that these lengths are different to the post above, but I estimated, the other guy measured)

Both sensors have a black, a red and a white wire. That combination of wires appears to only happen with Titania based plugs.

With Titania plugs:

Black is Reference (Out)

Red is Reference (In) and Heater (+)

White is Heater (-)

Output is 0 to 1 volts.

Titania plugs are NOT compatible with Zirconia plugs (ie do not substitute a plug with 2 whites and a black).

If you use the the NLMS Developments diagnostic cable, the front sensor is called O2 sensor, and the rear one is called O2 sensor RH.

Ocean bought an NTK O2 sensor, part number OTD2F-2B, which only has a cable length of 28cm. Ocean says he used it as a direct replacement of the front sensor (right plug and right thread, only shorter), but the harness had to be untaped and moved a bit to take advantage of some slack, and it wasn't routed as neatly because the original was a lot longer. He didn't have an issue with the rear sensor (square plug) because he spliced the wires which made it longer.

Has anyone managed to identify sensors with the right lengths and the plugs fitted?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1415869
Share on other sites

ah ****, the el falcon o2 sensor I bought was red black and white, so I assumed that red and black were heater + and - and the white was for the sensor.

I connected it to the old plug red - white black - white white - black

would this have damaged it? would reversing the colours to how they should be black,white - white and red - black make it work?

As when I replaced it I noticed no improvement in fuel economy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1418682
Share on other sites

GTaaargh:  What exactly is the point you are trying to make?

Lucien.

Lucien,

I've been reading threads about O2 sensors over the last couple of weeks, and visited a lot of web sites. I've seen a lot of opinions and gathered a small number of facts - such as the actual Nissan part numbers. I figured it was no good just having them on my scribble pad, I may as well write them all down in the one spot to help others searching for the same facts.

As to where I want to end up: I want to find sensors that are 100% compatible (correct type, colour of wiring, length and plug shape) with the front and back R32 GTR O2 sensors, and maybe some of the others models. I also want to clear up the issue of Titania and Zirconia sensors as fitting the wrong one will do no good at all.

As I get more info I'll add it.

BTW - if anyone finds an exact replacement part, let me know. Also, if anyone can tell me the markings on the sensors and the cable lengths of Nissan non R32 GTR sensors, I'd appreciate it.

James

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1419030
Share on other sites

ah ****, the el falcon o2 sensor I bought was red black and white, so I assumed that red and black were heater + and - and the white was for the sensor.

I connected it to the old plug red - white black - white white - black

would this have damaged it? would reversing the colours to how they should be black,white - white and red - black make it work?

As when I replaced it I noticed no improvement in fuel economy

Well, check this site: Lambda sensor shop and click on the Wire Colours 2 link. If they're right (please correct me if you know otherwise) a black/white/white sensor is Zirconia, and a red/black/white is Titania. They are incompatible, no matter how you connect the wires.

The rest of the site is pretty good too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1419068
Share on other sites

Well I just connected the red of the nissan plug to the black, and the white and black to the two whites of the NGK plug. I assume I got it right as it seems to work?

still not noticing massive difference in fuel economy.. did advance timing somewhat, which seems to have made more of a difference. Down to about 13L/100km.. from about 15L/100km which I guess is better than nothing. Bit poor for a nearly stock R32 though :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1419400
Share on other sites

Well, check this site: Lambda sensor shop  and click on the Wire Colours 2 link.  If they're right (please correct me if you know otherwise) a black/white/white sensor is Zirconia, and a red/black/white is Titania.  They are incompatible, no matter how you connect the wires.

The rest of the site is pretty good too.

To quote the page:

1. Count the number of wires on the original sensor.

2. Check the colour of the wires

  a. If the sensor has black, grey, purple or white wires, it will be a Zirconia sensor.

  b. If the sensor has one red wire with the possible exception of some Japanese vehicles, it will be a Titania sensor.

3. If it is a Titania sensor then check the original thread size of the sensor.

4. If you have ant doubt or query, please contact us.

Now, going by the page you linked, looking under Skyline (http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/skyline.htm) they say:

A sensor we are often asked for, is one to fit the Nissan Skyline Import. After much work we have found a Bosch sensor that we think fits the bill. Several customers have purchased these with good results.

Picture above shows the plug arrangement.  Wire length is 10.5 inches - 270mm.

Edit: Also notice that the sensor they picture does not have any red wires.

Perhaps just email them and ask which Bosch they suggest?

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1419739
Share on other sites

I recently bought my R33 4door auto. Driving it 370 kms home it used 3/4 of a tank.

i got abit of round town driving on the last 1/4 and fuel used was 430 km for 52 ltrs.

i think thats 12.3 ish ltrs / 100 km .... also filled up this weekend, and absolutly babying it round and its done 55kms for 1/4 tank !

So onto dyno today to check it as i have to drive to brisbane tomorrow.

Turned out it was cruising at 11.5:1 AFR !!! The Dynolog dyno can read the nissan codes directly, and the short and long term fuel trims were set max.

So a new O2 sensor and voila, 14.5:1 afr cruise now.

Hopefully i'll get over 500 kms to the tank now (close to 50 litrs as i fill just as the empty light comes on!)

I'll post results next week.

Oh car is stock save for a unshielded pod, and 3" dump and cat back. Cat is a highflow guts by the looks of it, but its a 2.5" in / out "REDBACK" cat .... compliance cat if im correct ????

Gary.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1421007
Share on other sites

To quote the page:

Now, going by the page you linked, looking under Skyline (http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/skyline.htm) they say:

 

Edit: Also notice that the sensor they picture does not have any red wires.

Perhaps just email them and ask which Bosch they suggest?

Lucien.

OK. I'm only interested in the R32 GTRs. However, according to NTK site the same sensor is used by the VL Non-Turbo and Turbo Dunnydoor, and the R31 Skyline.

The NTK sensors for the R32 GTRs have D2F stamped on them.

One sensor that has been used for GTRs is OTD2F-2B (right plug, right sensor, short cable). The O means Oxygen. The T means Tatania.

The Falcon EA through EL uses a OZA23-D2 (iaw the site). The Z means Zirconia.

So, IMHO, do not use the Falcon sensor for the R32 GTR, R31 or VL Dunnydore.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/4/#findComment-1426150
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...