Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I replaced my o2 sensor with a genuine item.

Around the same time fuel economy went really bad ~350-380km's to a tank, at times I felt what felt like 1/4 throttle travel flat spots not to mention the really hard cold starts. :S

However, I had been having cold stumbling starts for a while prior.

I ripped the injectors out and noticed a couple of the pintles were seated at different heights.

Dropped GTR injectors in, trimmed the injectors by 58.5% in order to get them to drop in to closed loop mode.

Initial drive... 130km's to a tank, 250km's by half... :P

Looks like economy is back, rb30det. ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1913695
Share on other sites

Nick, don't forget that the bottom of the tank is a bit smaller, so you'll go through the bottom half quicker than the top. I made the mistake of thinking "wow! I've fixed it!" when I got 100 in the first quarter of a tank. I filled on 350km exactly last night.

Putting the stock BOV back on doesn't seem to have fixed anything other than getting rid of that noisy "woosh" noise that makes police and old people look at me funny.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1916081
Share on other sites

I have read through most of this tread, there seems to be hardly any info on the R33 GTR.

How hard are they to get to? Is it any easy DIY job or should i get a mechanic etc to do it? Does it entail taking the exhaust out or turbos in a GTR since there i limited room around and behind the turbos?

Any help will be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1919129
Share on other sites

Actually it has been a PITA finding ones for the 33 GTR. They are 3 wire, 18mm thread titania ones.

ACA don't have a part that will fit (ie ROX203 nor ROX207 are right). Let me know if you have any luck finding another alternative.

And, the rear one is a real pain to remove while the motor is in the car....not impossible but you will need a very short flare style spanner

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1919267
Share on other sites

No duncan and Nissan are rip off merchants about $150 each i think .

Copper you should be able to get them off with a spanner, anyway its cheaper to buy the tube socket and then you have it for next time .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1920083
Share on other sites

Its similar to a spark plug socket with a slot on one side going almost all the way down so the cable fits in there, 22 mm . Go to any place where they sell tools even normal auto shops would probably have it and you should be able to get a cheap Chinese one. The rear one is very easy on the gtr ( when you have the tool ), you dont have to remove anything to get to it. The front i think you will have to remove some ducting to get to it .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1920888
Share on other sites

Had a read but couldnt find anyone else experiencing the same problem....

My 02 sensor when starting my car basically just sits at 0.3 volts. doesnt cycle like u guys mentioned.

After driving around and wen the car heats up the voltage slowly drops down to 0.00 volts! It occasionly slowly comes back up for whatever reason, but definately isnt cycling, pretty much constant reading.

Fuel economy isnt the best either 300kms if im lucky. any ideas? obviously not normal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1926262
Share on other sites

ok, have replaced my o2 sensor with the ngk one for an r33 gts-t

part number 0ZA395E2AB

no difference to economy so far :mellow:

what else can cause poor fuel economy

i dont get more than 300ks a tank from a 200rwkw gts-t (via usual mods, powerfc etc)

Edited by Spook's_Skyline
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/9/#findComment-1930374
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...