Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey I plugged in my consult today and the o2 sensor plays around at .70 to .80 volts, is it busted, could that be why I'm only getting 200kms to a tank, if so where's the best place to get a brand new one, there's no point in getting a second hand, thanks.

im looking at replacing my 02 sensor that is attached to the dump pipe and i came across this one on ebay what are peoples thoughts on it link is pasted below

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Nissan-R33-Skyline-NX-NX-R-N14-N15-Pulsar-O2-Sensor-/150632217769?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2312613ca9

  • 3 weeks later...

I bought an aftermarket one off kudos motorsports which plugs straight in (highly recommended trader)

Didn't really improve my fuel economy but i do 90% city driving. I wonder whether the geniune item which is double the price can do a better job...

  On 06/08/2011 at 3:12 AM, RIPae86 said:

I bought an aftermarket one off kudos motorsports which plugs straight in (highly recommended trader)

Didn't really improve my fuel economy but i do 90% city driving. I wonder whether the geniune item which is double the price can do a better job...

It either works or it doesn't there isn't much to them. If it is working then buying another working one will produce basically identical results.

  • 3 weeks later...

Fellas:

100% confirmed that NGK / NTK part no: OZA395-E2 can fit in an r34 GT-T and does work.

100% confirmed the plug DOESN'T FIT, however the switch is extremely simple.

im getting MUCH better fuel economy since installing the Zirconia 3-Wire, 22mm O2 sensor for the 32 / 33.

stop paying $220 for the original one!!!

Tim

  • 3 weeks later...

Installed Power FC - doing basic setup for a tune as suggested in the Power FC FAQ.

Whenever I put it into closed loop mode it starts to idle really rough, A/F goes very rich on my wideband (12:1), and it barely drives. If I take it out of closed loop it runs richer than standard ECU but idles and drives normally.

I know closed loop relies on the oxygen sensor to trim fuel at steady accelerator levels - so does the above indicate it is stuffed? I did a sensor check at idle through the hand coontroller and it sat at 1.3 V. i revved it and it didn't change? Is it time for a new one?

Thanks,

Pete

  On 12/09/2011 at 2:28 PM, Peter said:

Installed Power FC - doing basic setup for a tune as suggested in the Power FC FAQ.

Whenever I put it into closed loop mode it starts to idle really rough, A/F goes very rich on my wideband (12:1), and it barely drives. If I take it out of closed loop it runs richer than standard ECU but idles and drives normally.

I know closed loop relies on the oxygen sensor to trim fuel at steady accelerator levels - so does the above indicate it is stuffed? I did a sensor check at idle through the hand coontroller and it sat at 1.3 V. i revved it and it didn't change? Is it time for a new one?

Thanks,

Pete

yes

you may also be able to run a simulated output from your wideband to the ecu

Cool - thanks mate! I'll read the wideband manual regarding the simulated output function.

Also, does anyone know how the cheaper NGK ones compare to the more expensive OEM Nissan ones? I checked them both out on Kudos' site.

Thanks again!

**SORRY for the double post - didn't think the stupid phone uploaded the first one!**

Edited by Peter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...