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O2 sensor


JaFF

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hi guys,

just some feedback for the thread...

I picked up a NGK OZA395-E2 from bursons the otehr day. Only $100 RRP

Direct fit, same connector adn even comes with a sealant on teh thread so need to buy gasket goo.

Seems to work really well

Cheers

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can i sak what ppl are doing for r34's?

i'm pretty sure someone told me that the plugs a different :P but the sensors are the same size

mine is still cycling high to low but sometimes it hangs and kinda gets "stuck" for a couple of seconds

do i grab a falcon one? or kudos r33 one and cut and shunt the plug?

cheers, Tom

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Hey guys is there an O2 sensor in the exhuast as well ? if so does it have to be changed at all ? Ive already had the one in the engine bay replaced... car still running abit rich and this is after a tune as well hmmm

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No. They only have one, in the dump pipe itself.

The other sensor in the cat is just an overtemp switch, cat gets too hot it turns the idiot light on.

Only the '26 has two.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Picked up a new one for my ECR33 today from Auto One.

Brand is Walker, $120 and is supposed to be direct fit. According to the box, it's the same as an N14 Pulsar 2.0?

Part no. EGO-018

HAVE NOT tried to fit it yet, will do it on the weekend, but the plug certainly looks the same. Even came with a small tube of anti-seize for the thread. Groovy.

Took photos but my DSLR takes photos that are around 7MB each, so stuff it, you'll live.

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lol, same questions over and over. get one regardless of if you think its stuffed or not, chances are it needs replacing. see Kudo's, cheapest and easiest way, they have them for most models. made a world of difference to my R33 S2

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

before wasting money on o2 sensor and all the other junk ... try inflating tyre pressure to 40PSI.

I did that and also changed my coilpacks a couple of months before and used 2 bottles of Nissan injectory cleaner ($10) my 90% stop-and-go-traffic consumption went from close to 17k/100Kms to 14l/100Kms.

I don't know which exactly but I suspect tyre pressure (lower rolling resistance) + injector cleaner did the job.

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New O2 sensor and plugs gave my car a massive difference in fuel economy. It never hurts to do the tyre pressures and injector cleaners too, but if you havn't ever replaced your O2 sensor and plugs, do it and you'll see the improvements.

Another vote for Kudos. Great price for their O2 sensor and no re-wiring required. Just plug it in and you're rolling.

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O2 sensor related, I recently bought an engine to swap into my car sometime soon and it had an O2 sensor in the standard dump pipe and looked better then the one i had in my car atm, so i swapped it over with my old one.

Now my car runs like shit. it stutters and coughs and wont go anywhere, i throttle it a bit, coughs, then really light throttle it goes normal again, cant even go past 2000rpm then it coughs and splutters and the turbo sounds really weird.

Im going to go for a drive up the street now with the O2 sensor disconnected and see if it changes it, also do i have to reset ecu with a different o2 sensor? (nistune ECU)

another thing,

When its cold (overnight cold) it goes into a weird choke mode? it makes me put my foot down heaps more than usual and you can hear the turbo spooling up heaps loud, the car only starts moving when the boost pressure starts to go past 0, (then i have to back off the throttle as boost+cold engine = bad) its so hard to explain, the ecu stays in this mode until the engine gets up to temp (ie. halfway on temp guage) and while cruising along in 4th at 50km and its up to temp you can feel the ecu turn this mode off and the car runs sweet again.

Anyone else have these weird issues?

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Granted that it measures heat only, which is common knowledge, it IS an oxygen sensor.

no mate it isnt. it measures the temp of the exhast gas in the cat because a catalytic convertor only works at a certain temperature. also to the dude that said his a/f ratio of 14.1/1 is lean, actually it is slighty rich. 14.7/1 is the perfect mix (stoichiometric mix) where every atom of air and fuel combines and burns (as long as ignition timing is correct). 14.7/1 is the optimum cruising ratio.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

i bought my sensor from kudos (great service). once installed, this thing made a HUGE difference. i just recently did a 3hr drive (on the highway) and i averaged 11L per 100 ks (using consult). last time i did this drive it was well over 20L per 100Ks. even city traffic driving im averaging 13L per 100ks. so it has already payed itself off in fuel :thumbsup:

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Right now I'm also getting woeful fuel economy. Dunno what it is but I know it's disgusting.

Something that has always irked me about my car is that the temperate gauge needle NEVER sits in the middle. It's half way between the middle and C once warmed up. I presume this isn't normal?

What does this mean in relation to the 02 sensor, anything?

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Right now I'm also getting woeful fuel economy. Dunno what it is but I know it's disgusting.

Something that has always irked me about my car is that the temperate gauge needle NEVER sits in the middle. It's half way between the middle and C once warmed up. I presume this isn't normal?

What does this mean in relation to the 02 sensor, anything?

I would imagine it has nothing to do with the O2 sensor at all. However, if your car is not getting up to operating temperatures (water temps should be about 60C for 'operating temperatures'), then the ECU will be in cold-start mode - which is much richer (to warm the car up faster), and this richness results in poor fuel economy.

This could mean you have an issue with your cooling system (thermostat/radiator), or you could just have a dodgy coolant temperature sensor. Shouldn't be too difficult to diagnose, either way. If you have access to a USB CONSULT cable (about $50), you can probably tell if its the gauge or something more (it'll let you read the coolant temperature directly from the ECU).

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