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  • 5 months later...

Haven't Posted in a while now haha, so let's update everything that has been happening with the car. I ended up installing the 3inch dump pipe as well as blocking off the BOV (i know some people think its stupid (i do half the time too) but i do like the flutter). Then came the time for the big install. I ended up purchasing 740cc nismo injectors and booked in my install and tune as well as the 100,000 km service. Needless to say it was expensive but all up worth it :) haha. It took a while to do (Just about two weeks) mainly due to it being close to the Barbagallo Drift Assault, which i went to to watch my friend drift etc :) The car is now back in my hands and im loving it. It's running 365 hp at the rears which is a huge power difference haha and it still has more in it (due to some restrictions and the coilpacks not performing too great causing some missfires (there also may be a boost leak)). Should be around 380 when it's done (trying to source the coilpacks now haha) and i'll then post a dyno run hopefully. Loving the car and will hopefully get to start some drift pracs soon, even bought 2 rota grids for my "skid" rims haha -- only 250! That's all for the car at the moment haha.

Future plans: Splitfire coilpacks, fix boost leak -- further future new front bumper and hopefully some saving haha.

Started from a practically stock car and after a lot of money im close to the point i wanted to be :)

Mods on atm:

  • Hypergear Atr43g3 turbo running 19psi - braided lines etc
  • Custom 3 inch metal intake
  • genuine z32 afm (had to get another one since the one i had before was fake :/ lol)
  • 740cc nismo injectors
  • cheap pod filter
  • Hdi intercooler
  • jjr 3 inch dump pipe -- highflowed cat -- 3.5 or 4 inch catback with a 4.5 * tip (very loud and had to be modified to fit the turbo)
  • Walbro gss342 fuel pump
  • Npc clutch
  • Greddy profec b spec 2 boost controller
  • HSD coilovers
  • Dtm p10.1 rims 18x9.5 all round -- 225/40/18 stretched tyres
  • drift lip poorly done haha
  • There's other small stuff and may have forgotten
  • 2 weeks later...

Nice work man. I'm sure you would be loving it now!

Yer loving it now haha. So much different compared to stock with the speed/acceleration and dosing haha . Losing grip just from accelerating in second is quite a feeling lol :yes: I'm trying to save for the cams licence so i can participate in the next drift prac! So keen to start

365 is reasonable.I ended up buying a hyperg turbo,the newest one they've got . My car is apart & hoping everything goes back in by the end of the month.Since im doing all work at home its taking a bit of time.Ive also got a Utra gate 38mm so I'm hoping I make close to 300kw as promised by stao haha.I thought about poncams (256)but wasn't sure as a lot of people are saying you make f*k all power

You have done well with your first car and mods.

Did you research much into the hdi intercooler vs some other brands ? hdi do good stuff just wanted to see your thoughts on it...

To be honest man this was when i didn't know too much- just got advice from mechanic on what to get at the time man, it seems to be doing pretty well - no complaints

  • 2 months later...

Hey peeps,

Taken my car to the drifts twice now :woot: . Been having some fun with it but of course there is some small issues now lol. First time i went i melted the aircon drip pipe and melted the plastic shut haha (so im not using my air-con at the moment lol). Second time i went i was having heaps of fun. V8 race is definitely my favourite corner, however i went a bit too ham into it at one stage and span out, that combined with some slight overheating meant the car stalled (wouldn't turn back on) and i had to get towed out haha! Turns out i had melted some wiring lol, so i have now booked in with PZP again to check for a boost leak and to heat wrap some stuff in the engine bay lol :yes: I also slightly messed up the front right guard lol. I tightened the dampening and my car isn't extremely low at the front however, when drifting that wasn't enough causing the tire to grab the guard and mess up the paint and put it out of shape :unsure: I just kinda bashed it a bit so i could drive home lol

Anyway i'm still loving the car however im getting used to the power and kinda want more. Just trying to think what i could do that wouldn't cost and excessive amount as i'm still paying off a small loan i needed to get everything installed on the car :rolleyes:

365 is reasonable.I ended up buying a hyperg turbo,the newest one they've got . My car is apart & hoping everything goes back in by the end of the month.Since im doing all work at home its taking a bit of time.Ive also got a Utra gate 38mm so I'm hoping I make close to 300kw as promised by stao haha.I thought about poncams (256)but wasn't sure as a lot of people are saying you make f*k all power

Yer man haha, i thought i was only going to get 320-340 hp. I'm just not smart enough to install everything my self haha (wish i could) -- kinda looking at cams myself at the moment -- i wanna see if i can crack the 400hp mark lol

  • 1 month later...

Slight Update,

My car was tuned to united p100 before hand, but since they have taken that away i needed a retune. So i took it to PZP, who retuned me to bp98 and I somehow started to make more power :). Car is now making 378.9hp at the rear.

Plans for the future (probably not for a little while though):

Arp Head Studs,

Metal Head Gasket,

Poncams -- maybe 256

Maybe e85 (with fuel pump and lines changed)

Retune

At the moment i'm having fun with this car. Hoped to make it to the drift prac on the 28th but i have work :/ Next one hopefully

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As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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