Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, my r32 (rb20) has a high flowed r33 turbo, front mount and a 3.5 inch cat back the actuator in the high flow is at 14psi.

I want a turbo that fully boosts by 2500 - 3000 ish and pulls harder than the high flow if I got it nistuned and bought a 3 inch full exhaust plus smaller turbo would that do it? Help me please or should I sell it and buy something else?

Edited by Barrellboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the nistune will help you out no matter what you do with Turbo's

There's a series of supporting mods you haven't mentioned in your post. So I assume you only have what's mentioned.

Just buying a smaller Turbo won't help by itself.

When you say buy something else you talking a completely different car ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7001734
Share on other sites

By something else I mean a different car probably a wrx

A mate took me for a drive in his sr20 180sx and it pulled much harder than my 32 and was coming on boost soo early like 2600ish.. he had pon cams, tune, fmic, 3 inch exh and injectors. Can I get that low response with a 20 mine comes on at 4200 ish and pulls no where near as hard as his 180

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7001748
Share on other sites

usually if its just a run off the mill highflow it probably isn't specced up to be responsive.. personally im not much for bitsa turbos. Do you have any exhaust leaks? what condition is the motor? ie compression. Can you get your hands on a stocker rb25 turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7001764
Share on other sites

I don't know the compression but it generally feels like it runs well and came from a good family who imported it and didnt drive it too hard ( I know this) no exhaust leaks either. I could buy a stocker 25 turbo off gum tree but that wouldn't get me close to the response of the sr20 would it? The sr20 also has the stocker t25 turbo...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7001778
Share on other sites

I think you'd need more cubes, RB30et would hammer.. just my opinion

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423299-sa-rb30et-engine-package-240kw-motor-hd-clutch-box-etc-2500ono/

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7001792
Share on other sites

a tune helps infinitely. Particularly if you are willing to lean on it a bit and push the boost, esp with an electronic boost controller.

take it to Garage 101 for a nistune on the ecu and tune. I doubt you will be disappointed. Per4manz are also a damn good turbo shop so unless that turbo was highflowed for a different vehicle in mind from the technician (i.e. R33) you will be good to go hard on not much more budget...

P.S. to get a car that pulls hard and makes full boost under 3000rpm is pretty much a holy grail (unachievable essentially) and will take a very good condition motor with a very good turbo setup and associated mods ($$$).

In an RB20, yeah, pretty much impossible.

Edited by jjman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7002124
Share on other sites

Would even worry bout a wrx, they are not even worth comparing, its like oranges and apples.

To get decent response witb rb20, get a electronic boot controller, a aftermarket ecu, nistune is good value for money, and budget and get a tune, the tuner can bring the boost on abit earlier with the electronic boost controller so that can help, and with the turbo situation go look for a hks 2530, can make up to 230-240 kw, with excellent response, or a hypergear or a highfliwed r33 with the op6 rear housing. Ive been through the whole situation before so if i were you id be going the hks 2530

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431296-more-response/#findComment-7002295
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seems to be the case mate , still an OK price for a grey import.
    • I’m interested in the carbon diffuser fins and Toshiba MFD screen replacement if they’re still available.
    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
    • They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.
×
×
  • Create New...