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Boost Leak/pressure Tester

Shoujiki

By Shoujiki,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Shoujiki
Shoujiki

Yeah exactly. Technically the covers should be sealed .. so that wold explain the oil weep/leak i have at the back of the motor Yup if you were to do it that way, it would overcome these 2 issues!

SargeRX8
SargeRX8

The oil leak is your rocker cover gasket. Piece of piss to change. Mine was leaking. 10 mins later all sorted.

  • 2 months later...
boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

I have made a boost leak tester and plan on seeing if there is any leaks. And to avoid killing myself with compressed air or doing damage to my automobile, Can someone give me a run down on how to safely do this, where to put what? thank you.

Its quite simple really, take off your intake pipe and stick the fitting on the end on the end of the turbo and turn on your air compressor and listen for leaks. In regards to pressure I usually test with around 40psi to know that it will definately not leak at what I run which is 20 although had accidently done it at 90psi once and still had no leaks.

dyl33 Mentor

dyl33

Posted
Posted

Gave it a try didn't get any pressure...?! Using a 12v tyre compressor, How long would these take to build the pressure needed? Should I just let it go longer

I attached the BoostLeakTester to the pipe after the AFM, which goes to the turbo inlet. Is this ok? Do I have to go directly on the turbo inlet?

Marcus89 Proficient

Marcus89

Posted
Posted

Gave it a try didn't get any pressure...?! Using a 12v tyre compressor, How long would these take to build the pressure needed? Should I just let it go longer

I attached the BoostLeakTester to the pipe after the AFM, which goes to the turbo inlet. Is this ok? Do I have to go directly on the turbo inlet?

I have tried with a 12v pump and it's pointless unless your system is already really well sealed. You really need a compressor or if you dont mind the hassle drive to a servo use their air pump find leaks then take back home and fix

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

I've read a heavy duty 12v compressor is fine, I was thinking that I will remove the intake pipe, Did everyone else remove the whole pipe to turbo

don't believe everything you read.
MagicMikeZ32 Veteran

MagicMikeZ32

Posted
Posted

If you can hear a leak and can't find it, check the dipstick.



Any more than 5-10psi is overkill. As long as it holds pressure and doesn't drop straight away, be happy.



http://www.turboboostleaktesters.com/servlet/StoreFront

Shoujiki Proficient

Shoujiki

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I did my test with with the "tester" attached to the AFM inlet, i.e. using the stock rubber inlet pipe. It doesn't split, or leak. Keep in mind that doing it this way means that you fill the cam covers with pressure too (as the crankcase vent goes to the inlet tube). So any leaks in that area (not normally pressurized like this) will show up.

A 12V compressor will be fine. The voltage the compressor runs on has nothing to do with it. If it can fill a car tire with air, it can pump 15-20 PSI into the intake. Albeit, maybe a bit slower than a "big" compressor that can run at 100-120 PSI (like mine does).

If your getting no pressure build up at all (even 1 PSI?) then you have a leak. Find it, fix it, and test again until the system can hold pressure for a reasonable amount of time.

^ EDIT: Having the oil filter cap off will bleed out all the pressure, as your using the stock inlet pipe pressurized, so all the pressure will bleed out the crankcase vent hose, and out the oil filler cap. When mine was pressurized, when i took the filler cap off, it made a nice woosh sound and the pressure went to 0.

Edited by Shoujiki
dyl33 Mentor

dyl33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I did my test with with the "tester" attached to the AFM inlet, i.e. using the stock rubber inlet pipe. It doesn't split, or leak. Keep in mind that doing it this way means that you fill the cam covers with pressure too (as the crankcase vent goes to the inlet tube). So any leaks in that area (not normally pressurized like this) will show up.

A 12V compressor will be fine. The voltage the compressor runs on has nothing to do with it. If it can fill a car tire with air, it can pump 15-20 PSI into the intake. Albeit, maybe a bit slower than a "big" compressor that can run at 100-120 PSI (like mine does).

If your getting no pressure build up at all (even 1 PSI?) then you have a leak. Find it, fix it, and test again until the system can hold pressure for a reasonable amount of time.

^ EDIT: Having the oil filter cap off will bleed out all the pressure, as your using the stock inlet pipe pressurized, so all the pressure will bleed out the crankcase vent hose, and out the oil filler cap. When mine was pressurized, when i took the filler cap off, it made a nice woosh sound and the pressure went to 0.

Interesting. Maybe the oil filler cap off was my problem, And not giving the 12v compressor long enough to build the pressure. I will give it another go tomorrow through stock inlet pipe. (stock inlet pipe looks a bitch to remove)

Edited by dyl33
Marcus89 Proficient

Marcus89

Posted
Posted

You will need a compressor with a fairly large air reciever if you have any leaks worth repairing. 20psi should be fine.

This was my point. Had some major leaks that were too large for the little 12v pump to be able to show up because it couldnt get any pressure in there. Hooked up to compressor and they became apparent very quickly

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