Jump to content
SAU Community

V36 Sedan - Sydney Dealerships

NISMO

By NISMO,
in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Seano350GT Veteran

Seano350GT

Posted
Posted (edited)

That is disgusting. But for a car that's done 259,000km it's in damn good condition.. i see why the scumbags have snatched this one up.

edit: i've been searching through a whole bunch of importers stock lists and can't seem to find it.. wonder if it's waiting to be advertised.

Edited by Seano350GT
colin.ssc Mentor

colin.ssc

Posted
Posted

IMO why take this risk of getting a wound back/lemon when you can get Chef or Prestige Motorsport to import? Yes it will take time but if you are a car enthusiast, what's a little wait to get a good car for good value of your money?

NISMO Grand Master

NISMO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

IMO why take this risk of getting a wound back/lemon when you can get Chef or Prestige Motorsport to import? Yes it will take time but if you are a car enthusiast, what's a little wait to get a good car for good value of your money?

hey Colin, time is exactly it.

I'm not someone who just discovered imports a week ago, and have bought both locally and imported several times. So i know the pitfalls and potential traps. I've also been driving imports since back when people would see the GT badge on my 33, and ask me if this was the new falcon GT, and police would pull me over to have a chat about the car :)

The idea of this thread was to try and get some specific experiences so i don't have to spend two weeks driving around to every Sydney dealership to weed out the ones i wouldn't want to touch.

You guys don't have to convince me that there are great importers, i know this, and have used them. But if there is a legitimate car here, why wait 6 months to get my car on the road.

colin.ssc Mentor

colin.ssc

Posted
Posted

hey Colin, time is exactly it.

I'm not someone who just discovered imports a week ago, and have bought both locally and imported several times. So i know the pitfalls and potential traps. I've also been driving imports since back when people would see the GT badge on my 33, and ask me if this was the new falcon GT, and police would pull me over to have a chat about the car :)

The idea of this thread was to try and get some specific experiences so i don't have to spend two weeks driving around to every Sydney dealership to weed out the ones i wouldn't want to touch.

You guys don't have to convince me that there are great importers, i know this, and have used them. But if there is a legitimate car here, why wait 6 months to get my car on the road.

Yes I know what you mean. After looking around, I came to the conclusion that it was safer to import rather than getting it from a dealer here. Sure, there are some legitimate dealers here but there's also risk that the importer/agent they used could be dodgy? I was in the view that if I could eliminate as many middle people as possible, it would be less likely that I would be getting a lemon.

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted

re: IMG recommendation

another mob ensuring not a single VIN for their jap car range is published online... do a lot of homework.

They gave me a copy of the auction sheet, all I had to do was ask

Of course you do your homework before buying any car let alone an import

KayneX Apprentice

KayneX

Posted
Posted

Not all dealers are the same! There are some trying to do the right thing. The private people bringing cars in without Dealers Licenses are the ones that are bringing the industry down!! It's these guys that we have to compete with. Its these cars that should be used as examples as well as the dealers. Its also Compliance Centers without Dealers Licenses that are selling cars bringing the Industry down, I'm not going to mention anyone, but I can tell you that doing the right thing in this industry is really hard work and does not help when topics like this are targeting only dealers!!

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Dodgy private sellers don't have an ABN, so they aren't dealers.

When you buy from a dealership, you expect a non-dodgy car. Hence why people pay the premium to reduce/eliminate risk.

If you're a dealership and are doing the right thing, threads like these won't affect you. This thread isn't a blanket attack on all dealerships, it's showing examples of buyer beware. If you (dealership) can provide supporting documents etc then you won't have any issues :).

My point of view anyway. I've been wanting to buy a V36 sedan for a while now. I rather drive the car first and check it out in person before handing over cash, which is where dealerships come in handy. Massive wind-backs are a big concern because 88,000km car sold as 40,000km will be driving way past the major service point. Etc etc.

Zveruga Enthusiast

Zveruga

Posted
Posted (edited)

The XX mark on the left side means panel replacement. It has been repaired from an accident that has affected left side of the car with structural repair.

Panel replacement without structural repair does not lead to R mark on auction and okay for compliance/roadworthy. Car with RA/R mark may or may not be roadworthy in AU

Edited by Zveruga
Cherry Racer Collaborator

Cherry Racer

Posted
Posted

But but but

They said they now guaranteed all the cars they sell (nothing on consignment) and the previous issues have been addressed.

Oh man, I can't believe a dealer on Parramatta Rd would not be 100% genuine and trust worthy.

What is this world coming to?!?!

  • Like 1
the toecutter Apprentice

the toecutter

Posted
Posted

They gave me a copy of the auction sheet, all I had to do was ask

Of course you do your homework before buying any car let alone an import

I'm with you Yo-Yo.

Got my V36 through IMG

Andrew and Gavin "exceeded expectations" all the way.

(Still have my auction sheet too).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...