Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How does a 300ZX Twin Turbo compare to a R33 GTS-T? Considering wether its worth it to buy and modify it to hit the 300kw's.. If the RB30/25 is a torque monster can the 300zx be similar with similar, what im after is a fairly cheap reliable 300kw for the street and thinking of doing Injectors,computer,Eflex and 18psi on stock turbo's to get close to 300kw if I bought one.. At this power level with the R33 it was frying second gear and a handful, could I expect the same with a 300zx??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432767-300zx-tt-potential/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok well assuming it has good turbo's and we don't need to remove the engine, what potential does it have with ( stock turbo's apparently are garrett) to make over 250kw with E85 and say 18psi??

would it be a push in the seat experience or lacking????

There has been a few good ones in magazines over the years, one owner took out the intercoolers and used water injection to cool the intake charge

Got rid of the intercooler piping and really neatened up the bay no end

massive money and effort to modify with lots of problems and troubleshooting along the way.

does it have a computer or FMIC yet? turbo back exhaust etc etc? boost control? injectors for the juice too?

otherwise they are an old car like RB's so also consider the usual suspects of fuel pump

Also they suffer from a lot of wiring faults and oil leaks due to the restricted space in the engine bay often meaning required maintenance of require things doesn't get done as too expensive/hard to work on. Also that tight fit means higher under-bonnet temps.

Any medium to major work is the standard 'engine out' too.

I loved the look and the potential performance of them and always wanted one. Did my research, decided against and here I am a happy RB owner :)

ah good old fashioned internet advise from non owners, they're as reliable as any other 20 year old car, it just comes down to making sure you do the proper maintenance. Make sure the cooling system is in good working order & don't skip fluid/filter changes, make sure the 100k km service is done & worth doing a plenum pull. Simple common sense stuff.

Jump onto aus300zx.com & have a bit of a read up there for all your answers

LOL, this is gold.

You don't have to take the engine out to work on them, if you want to change the turbo's then sure, the engine coming out is the easiest way, but apart from that they're no different to any other V6.

I pulled the head off a kia sorento recently and there's no more room in one of those...

Mine has 360 RWKW and I daily it. It's a slicktop 2 seater version so it's lighter and shorter than the others. It's actually smaller than a 180sx or a skyline. They are a FANTASTIC drivers car. They handle well and the build quality surpasses that of other nissans of the same vintage (not that that's really important when buying a sports car)...

Here's mine:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/431749-360rwkw480-rwhp-z32-slicktop/

ok well assuming it has good turbo's and we don't need to remove the engine, what potential does it have with ( stock turbo's apparently are garrett) to make over 250kw with E85 and say 18psi??

would it be a push in the seat experience or lacking????

As far as potential, this is my car on low boost (only 16 PSI) and taking it very easy on the 1-2 change and easy on the throttle until 100kmh otherwise I just get too much wheel spin. It's a lot quicker on 22 psi and if I bury my foot, the needle just goes spastic.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=379020305557294&set=vb.100003479824447&type=3&theater

As far as potential, this is my car on low boost (only 16 PSI) and taking it very easy on the 1-2 change and easy on the throttle until 100kmh otherwise I just get too much wheel spin. It's a lot quicker on 22 psi and if I bury my foot, the needle just goes spastic.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=379020305557294&set=vb.100003479824447&type=3&theater

Nice results and looks very stock under the bonnet too, ive been in a NA and a couple of twin turbo's and they are very solid on the road compared to my gtst and feel like they're a quality vehicle. Still look pretty modern too and with those extra cubes would be good off boost with E85.

ah good old fashioned internet advise from non owners, they're as reliable as any other 20 year old car, it just comes down to making sure you do the proper maintenance. Make sure the cooling system is in good working order & don't skip fluid/filter changes, make sure the 100k km service is done & worth doing a plenum pull. Simple common sense stuff.

Jump onto aus300zx.com & have a bit of a read up there for all your answers

Yeah id be looking for a mature owner with good service history for sure, nice looking car for 20years old too

This thread is full of BS, crap they read on the net hahaha. AngryRB, a good condition stock turbo Z32 can make in excess of 250rwkw on 16PSI with 98 octane, mod for mod a ZX will DESTROY a GTSt, not even kidding. I know this as my family has owned and i have driven many variants of BOTH. No bias here, just plain facts, My NA ZX is on par with a stock/mild GTSt. Fair few guys are in the 11's on stock turbos with Z32's, including one here in aus doing 11.50's @ 117MPH on 98octane. Few in the US are doing 11.30's/11.40's at 121-124MPH with E85.

The potential is there, just the bad rep from lemons that haven't been taken care of stops people from buying them.

Edited by Super Drager

Just remember when looking at a 300zx is 90% of them have seeious electrical demons and most of the water hoses are perished and require replacing. They are also very light in the rear and have trouble with traction at standard power levels.

Also they are harder to work on then a gtst (won't say skyline cause the Gtr is a pain) and good ones may be harder to find

Im getting used to PITA setup's, the top feed rail on gtst is something id like to forget in future...

Just throwing idea's up at the moment, also considering a Toyota Prado 3.4L petrol for something different, looking for best bang for buck for under $10k..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...