Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lets see...stock ecu with ,stock turbo on high boost vs hiflow turbo on low boost.....which one is going to be faster?

Yeah, but ignoring which one makes the most fasts, the highflow approach actually solves his problem, which is that he does not want to buy and kill another stock turbo. Which is fair enough. Once you kill a couple you may well get a bit twitchy about doing it again. And the highflow at least sets him up to be able to go forward with the car, instead of setting him back to the start.

but a rebuilt turbo also solves the problem does it not?...I mean a stock one is good for 190kws @ 10-11psi which is no slouch and it will be more responsive than a highflow and pretty much eliminates any worry of RnR so in essence is possibly going to be faster and more reliable......if you can stop the wheels from flying apart by rebuilding it with steel wheels all your problems are solved...Its no going backwards at all...you have 190kws you an flog all day everyday...

Actually I think we need to redetermine what is exactly a highflow...

If you have a turbo with the same size wheel specs, but with redesigned blades for better flow, would this be considered a highflow...or just updated wheels..

Any turbo with bigger wheels is essentially going to be laggier is it not?...or if we have a turbo with redesigned blades that flow more with out losing any response is it going to push as hard at 5psi as standard at 10psi.....

I'm confusing myself now :wacko:

I had a garret core 2871r inside stock housings when I first bought mine, good push between 2500-4000rpm, was running 11psi making 195kw's with Zero issues, id go a hypergear and have it checked on a dyno at 7psi

Edited by AngryRB

I had a garret core 2871r inside stock housings when I first bought mine, good push between 2500-4000rpm, was running 11psi making 195kw's with Zero issues, id go a hypergear and have it checked on a dyno at 7psi

if you stomped on it fast and hard would it RnR...I found with mine it was ok if I accelerated smoothly it would pull hard...but if I stomped on the pedal ,it would RnR almost everytime where a stock turbo wouldn't...

but a rebuilt turbo also solves the problem does it not?...I mean a stock one is good for 190kws @ 10-11psi which is no slouch and it will be more responsive than a highflow and pretty much eliminates any worry of RnR so in essence is possibly going to be faster and more reliable......if you can stop the wheels from flying apart by rebuilding it with steel wheels all your problems are solved...Its no going backwards at all...you have 190kws you an flog all day everyday...

Actually I think we need to redetermine what is exactly a highflow...

If you have a turbo with the same size wheel specs, but with redesigned blades for better flow, would this be considered a highflow...or just updated wheels..

Any turbo with bigger wheels is essentially going to be laggier is it not?...or if we have a turbo with redesigned blades that flow more with out losing any response is it going to push as hard at 5psi as standard at 10psi.....

I'm confusing myself now :wacko:

I suppose any rebuild that increased flow even a little bit could be called a highflow. It just seems wrong to spend $X on a rebuild and not get it highflowed for an extra Y% money. That's especially true when on the Hitachi turbos you can't really rebuild them and keep the BB core anyway. A rebuild is already most of the way to a highflow in terms of what needs replacing.

Doesn't quite solve the problem of the ceramic turbine going poop though. And plastic comp wheel also likes to go poop.

Yeah, but if you're running 10psi through them, they will last (assuming second hand turbo is in good condition). Note the OP has standard ECU and wants a $400-500 bolt on solution to a blown turbo. How he got the turbo to blow in the first place? Either debris or spinning them past their design.

If OP decides to go with a high-flow, might as well do the ECU and get it tuned. Ebay turbos are a hit and miss (judging from what I've read and seen). You have to wonder how much engineering has gone into a cheap ebay turbo.

The Hypergear sounds good doesn't it?

  • Like 1

Standard turbos die at random. Sure, most die from being sped up, but there are some that die in the driveway. Lottery. FWIW, I'm running a wound up standard one on the NEO and the one on my RB20 ran at 14+psi for more than 10 years (and is still going as far as I know). Still a lottery.

I suppose any rebuild that increased flow even a little bit could be called a highflow. It just seems wrong to spend $X on a rebuild and not get it highflowed for an extra Y% money. That's especially true when on the Hitachi turbos you can't really rebuild them and keep the BB core anyway. A rebuild is already most of the way to a highflow in terms of what needs replacing.

yeah fwiw i wouldn't bother with a rebuild either, would be secondhand unit or highflow unit....in OPs case it would be a second hand unit...200$ spend change on beer and hookers or getting a professional to check it out so it hopefully doesn't blow another....

if you stomped on it fast and hard would it RnR...I found with mine it was ok if I accelerated smoothly it would pull hard...but if I stomped on the pedal ,it would RnR almost everytime where a stock turbo wouldn't...

never had any RnR unless it was over 12psi, used to run rich in general though so maybe that helped..

Ebay turbo's belong on fully sick ebay job skyrines..

Edited by AngryRB

never had any RnR unless it was over 12psi, used to run rich in general though so maybe that helped..

Ebay turbo's belong on fully sick ebay job skyrines..

I was being stupid and wound up the HKS2535 on a stock ECU, didn't even get to past 0.7bar and it would "R&R" at 0.4 bar she was alright, actuator pressure that is

yeah fwiw i wouldn't bother with a rebuild either, would be secondhand unit or highflow unit....in OPs case it would be a second hand unit...200$ spend change on beer and hookers or getting a professional to check it out so it hopefully doesn't blow another....

nice wrap up for the OP right there!

  • Like 1

I had an R34 turbo and rb20 actuator on my car for years and made between 190-210 rwkw depending on the dyno, obviously that was with a tune but as far as your budget, it's a good option. If you can afford a little more, a rebuild is a better option for what you want now with new steel wheels and core, room to move later when you do want to tune and more boost. I am reading a lot of good results and happy customers of Hypergears work in both rebuilds, hi flows and the other turbo's. Work out if you are stuck to a $500 budget or if you can save a bit more, then your choice should be made.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...