Jump to content
SAU Community

Ebay Turbo Bolt On For Rb25

Tommmay

By Tommmay,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

lets see...stock ecu with ,stock turbo on high boost vs hiflow turbo on low boost.....which one is going to be faster?

Yeah, but ignoring which one makes the most fasts, the highflow approach actually solves his problem, which is that he does not want to buy and kill another stock turbo. Which is fair enough. Once you kill a couple you may well get a bit twitchy about doing it again. And the highflow at least sets him up to be able to go forward with the car, instead of setting him back to the start.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

but a rebuilt turbo also solves the problem does it not?...I mean a stock one is good for 190kws @ 10-11psi which is no slouch and it will be more responsive than a highflow and pretty much eliminates any worry of RnR so in essence is possibly going to be faster and more reliable......if you can stop the wheels from flying apart by rebuilding it with steel wheels all your problems are solved...Its no going backwards at all...you have 190kws you an flog all day everyday...

Actually I think we need to redetermine what is exactly a highflow...

If you have a turbo with the same size wheel specs, but with redesigned blades for better flow, would this be considered a highflow...or just updated wheels..

Any turbo with bigger wheels is essentially going to be laggier is it not?...or if we have a turbo with redesigned blades that flow more with out losing any response is it going to push as hard at 5psi as standard at 10psi.....

I'm confusing myself now :wacko:

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had a garret core 2871r inside stock housings when I first bought mine, good push between 2500-4000rpm, was running 11psi making 195kw's with Zero issues, id go a hypergear and have it checked on a dyno at 7psi

Edited by AngryRB
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

I had a garret core 2871r inside stock housings when I first bought mine, good push between 2500-4000rpm, was running 11psi making 195kw's with Zero issues, id go a hypergear and have it checked on a dyno at 7psi

if you stomped on it fast and hard would it RnR...I found with mine it was ok if I accelerated smoothly it would pull hard...but if I stomped on the pedal ,it would RnR almost everytime where a stock turbo wouldn't...

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

but a rebuilt turbo also solves the problem does it not?...I mean a stock one is good for 190kws @ 10-11psi which is no slouch and it will be more responsive than a highflow and pretty much eliminates any worry of RnR so in essence is possibly going to be faster and more reliable......if you can stop the wheels from flying apart by rebuilding it with steel wheels all your problems are solved...Its no going backwards at all...you have 190kws you an flog all day everyday...

Actually I think we need to redetermine what is exactly a highflow...

If you have a turbo with the same size wheel specs, but with redesigned blades for better flow, would this be considered a highflow...or just updated wheels..

Any turbo with bigger wheels is essentially going to be laggier is it not?...or if we have a turbo with redesigned blades that flow more with out losing any response is it going to push as hard at 5psi as standard at 10psi.....

I'm confusing myself now :wacko:

I suppose any rebuild that increased flow even a little bit could be called a highflow. It just seems wrong to spend $X on a rebuild and not get it highflowed for an extra Y% money. That's especially true when on the Hitachi turbos you can't really rebuild them and keep the BB core anyway. A rebuild is already most of the way to a highflow in terms of what needs replacing.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Doesn't quite solve the problem of the ceramic turbine going poop though. And plastic comp wheel also likes to go poop.

Yeah, but if you're running 10psi through them, they will last (assuming second hand turbo is in good condition). Note the OP has standard ECU and wants a $400-500 bolt on solution to a blown turbo. How he got the turbo to blow in the first place? Either debris or spinning them past their design.

If OP decides to go with a high-flow, might as well do the ECU and get it tuned. Ebay turbos are a hit and miss (judging from what I've read and seen). You have to wonder how much engineering has gone into a cheap ebay turbo.

The Hypergear sounds good doesn't it?

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Standard turbos die at random. Sure, most die from being sped up, but there are some that die in the driveway. Lottery. FWIW, I'm running a wound up standard one on the NEO and the one on my RB20 ran at 14+psi for more than 10 years (and is still going as far as I know). Still a lottery.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

I suppose any rebuild that increased flow even a little bit could be called a highflow. It just seems wrong to spend $X on a rebuild and not get it highflowed for an extra Y% money. That's especially true when on the Hitachi turbos you can't really rebuild them and keep the BB core anyway. A rebuild is already most of the way to a highflow in terms of what needs replacing.

yeah fwiw i wouldn't bother with a rebuild either, would be secondhand unit or highflow unit....in OPs case it would be a second hand unit...200$ spend change on beer and hookers or getting a professional to check it out so it hopefully doesn't blow another....

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

if you stomped on it fast and hard would it RnR...I found with mine it was ok if I accelerated smoothly it would pull hard...but if I stomped on the pedal ,it would RnR almost everytime where a stock turbo wouldn't...

never had any RnR unless it was over 12psi, used to run rich in general though so maybe that helped..

Ebay turbo's belong on fully sick ebay job skyrines..

Edited by AngryRB
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

never had any RnR unless it was over 12psi, used to run rich in general though so maybe that helped..

Ebay turbo's belong on fully sick ebay job skyrines..

I was being stupid and wound up the HKS2535 on a stock ECU, didn't even get to past 0.7bar and it would "R&R" at 0.4 bar she was alright, actuator pressure that is

WMDC35 Experienced

WMDC35

Posted
Posted

yeah fwiw i wouldn't bother with a rebuild either, would be secondhand unit or highflow unit....in OPs case it would be a second hand unit...200$ spend change on beer and hookers or getting a professional to check it out so it hopefully doesn't blow another....

nice wrap up for the OP right there!

  • Like 1
FordyR31 Mentor

FordyR31

Posted
Posted

I had an R34 turbo and rb20 actuator on my car for years and made between 190-210 rwkw depending on the dyno, obviously that was with a tune but as far as your budget, it's a good option. If you can afford a little more, a rebuild is a better option for what you want now with new steel wheels and core, room to move later when you do want to tune and more boost. I am reading a lot of good results and happy customers of Hypergears work in both rebuilds, hi flows and the other turbo's. Work out if you are stuck to a $500 budget or if you can save a bit more, then your choice should be made.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...