Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

Got a hold of a hoist recently (best thing ever might i add), but just wondering where the hell do i put the arms under on the R33?

The rails look pretty soft...so just thought I'd ask this silly question before i go and stuff something up!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433335-hoist-spots-for-lifting-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

I use the stock jacking points, don't use the chassis rail inboard of it, they are way too soft.

Took my car to a mechanic about a year ago and he somehow caved in my jack points :(

Ps: totally random comment, but I just felt the urge to mention it :P... Lol

Slightly OT but if using a trolley jack, I've always used front sub-frame/rear diff. Is that generally considered the right place to use? I've heard people say use chassis rails, but as stated above, they seem pretty soft.

Never on those "chassis rails"! Unless you want a very expensive repair bill to fix them, they are soft and not for loading on at all :no: . There are axle stand points on the sills front and rear I believe, also some hoists appear to have additional inboard blocks to lift up the chassis on the diff/subframe area though I'll assume you have a 2 post hoist with the adjustable arms so the sill points will be the go with appropriate soft blocks/pads. Again don't use the "chassis rails" as this is at least a $500 repair if you get caught with the damage.

Hope that helps!

Links;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266324-howwhere-to-lift-a-skyline-r33s2/

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/118956-jack-stand-points-needed/

^Side member=NO LIFT NO! ;)

Thanks for all the reply's fellas, Havn't had a change to throw it up on my lift yet, but was happy i remembered reading somewhere "Don't lift on the chassis rails" ha ha as my old man told me to put it on there!!

When you say the jacking points ( I have never used them on the skyline, I always used to jack from the cross member up front and the diff on the rear), are you refering to the metal tab/cut out looking things just after the front wheels near my side skirts? There are also some just in front of the rear wheels too.

I have uploaded a picture of my hoist pad, as it is all still pretty new to me!

And yes - It's a 2 post hoist where the arms are of adjustable length

Also - What are sill adapters?

post-91087-0-32104200-1381828693_thumb.jpg

Edited by Booki

The jacking points will be on the sills (just in from the side skirts).

Pretty sure there meant for emergency jacking only but for a hoist there really the only place you can use.

And that pic you have is basically what every hoist should have anyways, they should all have rubber pads.

I took a few snaps - i assume these are the sills, and like everyone else. Mine look like they have been damaged....so don't know if they are safe to lift on? I don't want to wreck them more :\

Can you lift from this point on the suspension?

I have circled the area, although that only covers the rear....anywhere else i can go from the front?

post-91087-0-80469400-1381910167_thumb.jpg

post-91087-0-22939100-1381910182_thumb.jpg

post-91087-0-74605200-1381910194_thumb.jpg

post-91087-0-59900600-1381910242_thumb.jpg

Those are the right points, they're standard locations on most cars Ive worked on. Behind the front wheels and infront of the rear wheels. And yeah don't jack up on the chassis rail.

Good to see in that pic up there Booki that your jacking points are still in good shape, both my cars are flats because the wrong jack was used. I now lift from the rear under the diff and the front, where ever I see fit.

The load point is the flat section between the two half circle cut outs, if you look at the factory jack it has a cut out in it which is to allow the bit that sticks down to go into, so the concept is the same for the hoist, make sure the bit that sticks down goes into a cut out

NEVER lift from the chassis rails

Is there anywhere else you can lift the car up from? (Using a 2 post hoist)

Can't grasp the concept that the little bit of metal sticking out where you put your emergency jack is where you lift the car from, maybe I am looking at the wrong thing.

How do peoples get damaged if hoist pads have cutouts in them?

Edited by Booki
  • Like 2

They don't if you lift the car level, with all 4 pads on the correct spot. The jacking points on the sill are reinforced to handle it, just take it easy and make sure the pads are central as you lift.

  • Like 1

hijackin the thread - but is it possible to get my jack points repaired? they are completely screwed up... :(

A little heat a large flat blade screwdriver and a shifter should have most of it bent back, depending how it has folded, but it will have limited strength afterward

I find they crush when most of the car's weight is put on to one point. That's why a trolley jack on the front point works fine, as do hoists when balanced properly.

Alrighty!

Actually got off my ass and had a good squizz at the car.

As you guys have said, you can tell where the lift points are and how it works after looking at it with the pad under neath it (and comparing to the factory jack lol).

But....the pads I have are not deep enough to totally prevent sill damage, it will hit the sill when i lift.

anybody know of any other type of hoist pads or adapters i can use to be 100% safe not to damage the sills? (Yes im fussy like that :P )

The genuine nissan one is LM4086-0200

Havn't been able to find it online yet

Edited by Booki

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please use a modern ECU. PowerFC with the Nintendo Gameboy controller is horrible. It's not 2005 anymore.
    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
×
×
  • Create New...