Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

Got a hold of a hoist recently (best thing ever might i add), but just wondering where the hell do i put the arms under on the R33?

The rails look pretty soft...so just thought I'd ask this silly question before i go and stuff something up!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433335-hoist-spots-for-lifting-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

I use the stock jacking points, don't use the chassis rail inboard of it, they are way too soft.

Took my car to a mechanic about a year ago and he somehow caved in my jack points :(

Ps: totally random comment, but I just felt the urge to mention it :P... Lol

Slightly OT but if using a trolley jack, I've always used front sub-frame/rear diff. Is that generally considered the right place to use? I've heard people say use chassis rails, but as stated above, they seem pretty soft.

Never on those "chassis rails"! Unless you want a very expensive repair bill to fix them, they are soft and not for loading on at all :no: . There are axle stand points on the sills front and rear I believe, also some hoists appear to have additional inboard blocks to lift up the chassis on the diff/subframe area though I'll assume you have a 2 post hoist with the adjustable arms so the sill points will be the go with appropriate soft blocks/pads. Again don't use the "chassis rails" as this is at least a $500 repair if you get caught with the damage.

Hope that helps!

Links;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266324-howwhere-to-lift-a-skyline-r33s2/

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/118956-jack-stand-points-needed/

^Side member=NO LIFT NO! ;)

Thanks for all the reply's fellas, Havn't had a change to throw it up on my lift yet, but was happy i remembered reading somewhere "Don't lift on the chassis rails" ha ha as my old man told me to put it on there!!

When you say the jacking points ( I have never used them on the skyline, I always used to jack from the cross member up front and the diff on the rear), are you refering to the metal tab/cut out looking things just after the front wheels near my side skirts? There are also some just in front of the rear wheels too.

I have uploaded a picture of my hoist pad, as it is all still pretty new to me!

And yes - It's a 2 post hoist where the arms are of adjustable length

Also - What are sill adapters?

post-91087-0-32104200-1381828693_thumb.jpg

Edited by Booki

The jacking points will be on the sills (just in from the side skirts).

Pretty sure there meant for emergency jacking only but for a hoist there really the only place you can use.

And that pic you have is basically what every hoist should have anyways, they should all have rubber pads.

I took a few snaps - i assume these are the sills, and like everyone else. Mine look like they have been damaged....so don't know if they are safe to lift on? I don't want to wreck them more :\

Can you lift from this point on the suspension?

I have circled the area, although that only covers the rear....anywhere else i can go from the front?

post-91087-0-80469400-1381910167_thumb.jpg

post-91087-0-22939100-1381910182_thumb.jpg

post-91087-0-74605200-1381910194_thumb.jpg

post-91087-0-59900600-1381910242_thumb.jpg

Those are the right points, they're standard locations on most cars Ive worked on. Behind the front wheels and infront of the rear wheels. And yeah don't jack up on the chassis rail.

Good to see in that pic up there Booki that your jacking points are still in good shape, both my cars are flats because the wrong jack was used. I now lift from the rear under the diff and the front, where ever I see fit.

The load point is the flat section between the two half circle cut outs, if you look at the factory jack it has a cut out in it which is to allow the bit that sticks down to go into, so the concept is the same for the hoist, make sure the bit that sticks down goes into a cut out

NEVER lift from the chassis rails

Is there anywhere else you can lift the car up from? (Using a 2 post hoist)

Can't grasp the concept that the little bit of metal sticking out where you put your emergency jack is where you lift the car from, maybe I am looking at the wrong thing.

How do peoples get damaged if hoist pads have cutouts in them?

Edited by Booki
  • Like 2

They don't if you lift the car level, with all 4 pads on the correct spot. The jacking points on the sill are reinforced to handle it, just take it easy and make sure the pads are central as you lift.

  • Like 1

hijackin the thread - but is it possible to get my jack points repaired? they are completely screwed up... :(

A little heat a large flat blade screwdriver and a shifter should have most of it bent back, depending how it has folded, but it will have limited strength afterward

I find they crush when most of the car's weight is put on to one point. That's why a trolley jack on the front point works fine, as do hoists when balanced properly.

Alrighty!

Actually got off my ass and had a good squizz at the car.

As you guys have said, you can tell where the lift points are and how it works after looking at it with the pad under neath it (and comparing to the factory jack lol).

But....the pads I have are not deep enough to totally prevent sill damage, it will hit the sill when i lift.

anybody know of any other type of hoist pads or adapters i can use to be 100% safe not to damage the sills? (Yes im fussy like that :P )

The genuine nissan one is LM4086-0200

Havn't been able to find it online yet

Edited by Booki

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
    • Sounds good, we will aim to be there! @The Bogan I'll give you a shout if you are heading up to campbelltown for the meet too.
    • Before I get to the test day, just to finish off the android head unit. This is a demo from car start up....the standard/host system takes a few seconds to boot (same as all v37) but Android comes up quickly. In this vid I'm using the delivered launcher but have set the default to Agami since which is easier to navigate when if use primarily 5 apps. You can see the host system still takes over when required eg putting it in reverse, and you can switch between Android and not by holding the back button 3 sec. It is pretty responsive (fast) but you can see I had to press harder than expected a couple of times.  I still have the phone connected to the stock system, and that also seamlessly takes over Android music playing. v37-android-demo.mp4 The bigger reason that I put this in though is so that I can use Ecutek directly on the head unit. That gives me a dash with logging (up to 20MB only), high and low value warnings on any parameter etc etc. I've run a USB cable from the Ecutek OBD dongle to a USB input on the unit, easy. v37-ecutek-demo.mp4   The unit did freeze on the launcher the other day, I think Agami was trying to verify the license when it didn't have a data connection...will monitor and report back if there are any other problems but so far I'm very happy with the upgrade.
    • Nah that is just crappy GPS mapping, I did have a small excursion (cold tyres, damp track, surprise!), will post up that when I get a chance.
×
×
  • Create New...