Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bang for buck, Unitig AC/DC 200 amp. You will need to buy a foot pedal for it though, and 15A GPO.

I have used one daily for about 5 years, good unit. Only once did it let me down, a circuit board blew out, but the replacement part was on the shelf in Sydney. I just can't justify buying a Miller for 5k when this one does a similar job for 1/4 the price.

  • 1 month later...

I have the same unitig as scotty, had it about a year now with no issues except for the gas reg that comes with it was leaking slighlty but they swapped it over for me on the spot. i got my sparky mate to install a 15 amp power point as is required for any high amperage equipment. to run the 15 amp line and power point cost me about 150 dollars. I havn't had to push 200 amos through it yet however i have put together some mild steel at about 140 amps for about 2 hours and it seemd fine, no noticable increase in temp of the machine etc. if your a beginer, then dont let all the knobs scare you, once you read uup about them you can adjust them to what ecer you need. most are simple stuff like post gas flow time etc which are not critical to typical jobs however help to finish up welds. youll get it after a short time. many years ago i used a large and expensive cig weld machine when i did nascars and in all seriousness the only difference i care to mention is the size and weight of these new inverter technology units. i have it mounted on the wall just above a bench and mostly use ot to do my own exhausts and cooler piping etc. It seemed to be the best value for money at the time.

A few times, 6 track days I think. The auto box doesn't like it much. :/

yeah gotta get a manual in there!

Would there be any stores that stock uni tig 200s in in sydney?

been to the track much scotty?

im in melbourne and i got mine from a mob called united tools

try this, http://www.unitedtools.com.au/new-south-wales/

Silverwater welding supplies have them also total tools (who had a big sale recently and u could have saved a bit) and also Hare and Fobes (also had a sale on).

I purchased a cigweld acdc machine when total tools had 30% off everything in store a while ago and have found it to be a good machine. Cost me a little less then what the normal price of the unimig machine was going for.

  • 3 weeks later...

It still has the same model number - search Smootharc Advance MIG 200C (for some reason SAU won't let me paste links, or even copy / paste into my posts :domokun:). Not sure whether they've changed the internals - for that kind of price rise, I'd hope so. Mine was on special when I bought it. I paid $750, and it's currently advertised at $1160-ish. I've seen them advertised for over $1200.

Top unit though (for a MIG). It turns ordinary welders like me into freakin geniuses.

I did a course a while ago and we were able to use the new lincon welders. It was able to automatically adjust wire speed and amps to the metal thickness. Bloody amazing machine and made u look like a pro. They were into the thousands though and more for large shops I think.

Not the token tools one however when researching for my machine I narrowed it down to the unimig machines and the cigweld. Silverwater Welding highly recommend the Unimig machine and have had very little trouble with them. I only bought the cigweld machine because of the deal I got.

I just bought a token tools Alupulse 200D Deano, haven't had much time to weld, but the stuff i have done has come out great (and i haven't TIG welded for 25 years). Got the pedal with it but haven't used it yet but everything else is quality.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...