Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The only engine I had to check the oil every 2 weeks was my 2 stroke RGV. For a modern 4 stroke car engine, unless there is something majorly wrong every 2 weeks is excessive.

My engine loses around 500ml of Oil ever 3000kms. its takes 4.7L of oil each oil change which I do myself.

Do the maths and you can tell that there was something terribly wrong with the car I bought if I was loses 4.7L in less than 5000 km.

I really hope you see this Joe, Id love to hear what excuse you have now.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=33vma0z&s=5#.UqaV2fQW1EM

Take a look. If there are any questions I'd be happy to answer them.

According to the email, the sales contract states the car was sold with 65,123kms on the odometer. Did you receive the Japanese de-registration certificate with the car, if not have you since been able to get hold of it to qualify the kilometers?

According to the email, the sales contract states the car was sold with 65,123kms on the odometer. Did you receive the Japanese de-registration certificate with the car, if not have you since been able to get hold of it to qualify the kilometers?

Dodgy comes flying in!

I wonder if it actually had 65,123km

According to the email, the sales contract states the car was sold with 65,123kms on the odometer. Did you receive the Japanese de-registration certificate with the car, if not have you since been able to get hold of it to qualify the kilometers?

I asked for this, along with my friend that bought a car at the same time.

They were in the mail, then in his safe, then ill send them too you, then they got lost.

I asked for this, along with my friend that bought a car at the same time.

They were in the mail, then in his safe, then ill send them too you, then they got lost.

If you're still interested in getting hold of it please PM me your VIN/chassis number

Edited by dodgyimports

There shouldn't be any surprise that Joe winds back the odometres. I was surprised when my car came out of his mechanics with extra Kilometres so I wouldn't be able to get my warranty.

I would have thought that that would not void your warranty as it was them that did the kms. Jesus.

And here I was looking for an Evo earlier this year and nearly bought into all the praise n shiz showered on Xtreme on EvoOz.

Pity all the people that have bought from this mob over the years. Guess their cars weren't all they thought it to be (regardless of whether it has broken down on them or not!).

Glad I went with the venerable Kristian Appelt instead (& not for the first time either) ;)

I've got everything from books to keys and always get given an ORIGINAL Export cert/De-reg paper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...