Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not really, It's going to be double bad for team morale. Going to have an angry Botas, angry Williams and a half angry Massa (For them asking him in the first place). Bottas had a chance to steal some more points off Button, and a slim chance to drag Massa with him. Good for the team. Worst case sceneraio, Button and Bottas take each other out, Massa gains his place back +1 and they can say they tried (although they would not be happy about losing points/damaging a car like that)

I can understand why Massa didn't want to do it, but this early in the season, fighting for minor positions, I think they have to try and get as much as they can. Championships arent on the line, its only race 2. Sometimes you have to think about the team when your not as fast as the other guy and theres another team only a couple of seconds in front

I do feel sorry for Massa. He's a victim of being nice, everyone expects him to play by the rules. But it's one thing to be asked to move over for a world champion (Alonso), it's quite another to be asked to move over for the newbie.

You're all forgetting Multi21 from last year. Seb gave no farks for what the team said, and did his own thing. Nobody was surprised because we all know he's an anus-diddling bieber lookalike so the collective reaction was a non-event. You need this kind of "win at all costs" attitude to be a world champion, Massa and Weber both got close but they are not arseholes. When you need those last few points to get you ahead of the rest, being an arsehole will achieve it and your team will forgive you if you bring home the bacon. It's better to win while not being an arsehole but a lot harder.

f**k him. If he was faster, he wouldn't be behind! :P

Besides, Bottas clearly demonstrated how likely he'd be to pass the McLaren - he couldn't pass Massa. He couldn't even really launch an attack. So Williams got the same number of points - no problems there. And the rest of the world got to enjoy the correct sporting outcome.

Edited by hrd-hr30
The FIA sanctioned sensor says he used less fuel but how much was left in the tank?

And the fact that whenever you're out in front you use less fuel than fighting with other cars for position and in the dirty air of the car in front.

And benedict cumberbatch, an actor at his first gp race, still did a better job at the podium interviews than Alan Jones did at the Aussie gp

Still wondering why Rosberg used so much more in the same equipment. I am not calling shenanigans but he had clear air in front for most of the race since Homoton cleared out.

Different setups, different tyre degradation and defending are all factors but the difference from memory was around 5% which seemed a little excessive when using the same gear.

Still wondering why Rosberg used so much more in the same equipment. I am not calling shenanigans but he had clear air in front for most of the race since Homoton cleared out.

Different setups, different tyre degradation and defending are all factors but the difference from memory was around 5% which seemed a little excessive when using the same gear.

And the fact that whenever you're out in front you use less fuel than fighting with other cars for position and in the dirty air of the car in front.

And benedict cumberbatch, an actor at his first gp race, still did a better job at the podium interviews than Alan Jones did at the Aussie gp

Remember Rosberg was falling back near Seb at one stage so probably used a bit of fuel to build a gap back up. Hamilton didnt have to live in the turbulent air, which they keep telling us does bad things for tyres, fuel economy etc, so I guess the start of the race might have snowballed the rest?

Who knows. Theres so much to question at this stage, and noone is willing to give any answers so what can you do

In Malaysia Red Bull experienced a failure of the fuel sensor on Daniel Ricciardo's car and used the back-up system, but because the sensor completely failed, rather than just providing inaccurate readings, the same debate did not occur.

from f1live.. LOL. these sensors are a bloody joke. or maybe RBR have figured out how to make them die :P

if i were Juan Miguel Fernandez and this was my 5th(?) year driving a fruitless ferrari, i'd be re-reading my current contract looking for an exit clause

they've slipped back into their close enough is good enough philosophy, and short of something terrible going wrong with Merc of the bulls, they're not going to accomplish much

i would say the same about Mclaren, but i dont know what this Honda move has in store

in any case, Louie for WDC14!

And the fact that whenever you're out in front you use less fuel than fighting with other cars for position and in the dirty air of the car in front

Which would likely be entirely offset by not slipstreaming or using DRS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...