Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got lucky today and found a 125a alternator that looks like a Hitachi and a noticeably wider in the outer metal section between the ally casings . I found it by mistake in a wrecker 92 Maxima with an early VG30 in it . Usually the 110a ones turn up on 97 98 A32 Maximas with VQ30s in them .

The mounting ears are the same with the front tensioner one on centre so to speak . RB alternators being on the drivers side have the top ear slightly towards the engine so need to mod the top bracket to suit the Maxima alts . Maxima VQs don't tension the drive belt by moving the alternatorand and depending on the year and VG/VQ engine can be above or below the AC compressor . I scored a slotted tensioner bracket from an early bottom mount car and another from some top mount Nissan , transverse KA I think . I also got the threaded adjuster block and bolts off some Nissan that tensions by hinging the alternator RB style .

These later alternators have a different connection to the early large spade type . I only have one good plug and I'll have to see what my car has standard .

$45 for a second hand 125a alt sounds good to me , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

Yeah I have a string of alternators off various Jap things now starting with an LR165 off a Vortex and the Z32 LR180 that replaced it .

I scored a genuine Hitachi LR1110 (110a) which had been freshened up for the R33 , then stumbled on the 125a one which I pretty sure is a rebuilt Hitachi LR11125 in Maxima casings .

You see the odd copy of Hitachi alts and you can tell by there being no Hitachi stickers and the plating on the nuts and bolts is silver not that gold appearance .

Anyway we split the cases off the 125 and washed it all up yesterday arvo . All looks pretty good though the back bearing is a bit tired .

I honestly think 110a is plenty to have in a car that has 80 standard particularly a 90s Skyline without all the luxo elec pork .

One of my failings is I can't resist rare upspec bits particularly when the bite is virtually trivial .

Must stop collect alternators , cheers A .

Yeah well it works out to around $155 cleaned tested and with new NTC (OE) bearings if the reg rectifier and brushes are good . That's with the help of a mate and the workshop with $50 their way because I don't use people .

The RH9 one has the better front case tensioner mount position but even having to make or mod the bracket it's heaps cheaper and any Maximer alt with the right pulley and socket goes bolt plug . $155 vs 6-900 , the plain lookin one wins .

I'm reluctant to think there is anything special in the RH9 one and if there is it could be higher speed bearings - and lairy paint .

Of course a bright blue pully and stator is worth at least a second in the quarter ... 100% !

A .

Edited by discopotato03
  • 5 weeks later...

Any one heard that the I30 160amp are straight bolt-on affair ? a chap in UK said it was straight bolt on on his r32.

I'm trying to buy one from mechman or DC power in the state.. but none are willing to take a R32 case and rebuilt it or make a custom one.. obviously they must think the market is not there and they wont sell enough for them to make it worth it.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW )
    • But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
×
×
  • Create New...