Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm doing a bit of research for a vehicle I'm planning on purchasing R34 GT-T, I would like to go a Map Sensor ECU so I can get away with out needing to run a Air flow meter

before people say "use the search button" I already have read some threads but still confused about what the majority of people on here are running

so what options do I have taking into account I live in Victoria and my closest dyno tuners are in melbourne, Link, ViPec, Adaptronic ,Microtech, Haltech etc ??

I don't mind spending coin as long as it is on something that will work with future mods (bigger turbo, cams, Injectors etc..)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437166-map-sensored-ecus/
Share on other sites

I am sure you are not planning to spend maybe $2k + just to get rid of your afm which will give you no performance gains at all. So you need to weigh up the expense of putting in a bigger turbo, injectors etc and then trailering your car to a tuner or getting a workshop that can install the mods and the ecu and tune it. In either case you need to choose a tuner and find out what they can install and tune.

Since it appears you haven't bought the car yet it would seem a lot easier to find one with the ecu already installed.

  • Like 1

I'm after peoples opinions on what works best and what doesn't, I will be putting on a bigger turbo and injectorsetc I'd be happy to look at a apexi Pfc but from what I have read they are now old school compared to what a link,haltech,vipec can do

What's your concern with an afm? As kiwi said it's alot of cash just to get rid of it.

A nistune ecu would be the best option, but you haven't actually mentioned your goals except for diching the afm.

Who told you they are bad?

What's your concern with an afm? As kiwi said it's alot of cash just to get rid of it.

A nistune ecu would be the best option, but you haven't actually mentioned your goals except for diching the afm.

Who told you they are bad?

My goal is to get around 300kw, as for the afm I had a few rb30's back in the day and they were always giving trouble

Easily done with a z32 afm and nistune ecu.

I also had issues years ago with a vl turbo, went to a wolf 3d.

Really no need to go to an aftermarjet ecu with how good nistune is. Also keeps everything looking stock.

It kind of depends what you wan't to do with the car?

If it's going to be a street car up to around 400rwkw and you don't need a whole range of additional functions then a nistune board and vh45 afm will allow for tuning scope right up to 400kw and will be a very easy, factory idle/cold start/cruise etc Light load, transient load, temp variation etc are all measured better with an AFM and all result in a much nicer street car.

If you wan't a whole range of additional options, I'd go a plug in Haltech with optional plug loom and can expander for things like can 02 input etc.

Edited by XRATED

Hi all,

ECUs are a personal choice, some are better than others for some things etc, but you're looking at 'the last 5%' in the real world.

I have personally always run Haltech and suggested them for clients vehicles.

My 32R had a Power FC and once swapped with a Platinum Pro plug and plag ECU, I found around 40kwatw, it used less fuel and was faster to drive on track due to the PFC's weird boost map (it made boost ramp up hard even though I had the throttle at 70%/ high revs, the rear would break loose killing lap times. Once I went to Haltech, I could feed boost depending on throttle)

Hope it helped.

Mark :)

OP - For 300rwkw and a street car, you're talking some pretty hefty expense for not a lot of value in terms of useable features.

Nistune and a BRAND NEW GENUINE Z32 AFM will get you there, for $1000 or so. Comes well under half the cost of any other option you were thinking about.

Power results will be the same, tune will be just as good, all the factory stuff will work just as fine.

The things you wont get for example are boost control vs RPM, additional inputs (for oil temp cut out for example)... And other such things, a lot of which, for a daily/street car you neither need nor will ever use.

.

My 32R had a Power FC and once swapped with a Platinum Pro plug and plag ECU, I found around 40kwatw,

That has nothing to do with the ECUs itself all things being equal and in working order. Just a case of a rubbish tune in the PFC vs the tune in the Haltech. Nothing more, nothing less.

by the time you buy a z32 afm, electronic boost controller, a nistune board and install it and tune it, you are at around the same cost an adaptronic would cost which has a inbuilt map sensor and can controll boost properly with a cheap mac valve.

www.skylineecu.com

only way to fly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...