Car Cannot Take Timing

[XKLABA]

For cam timing to be an issue it would have to be a few teeth out, and that is easy checked, and given they have done it three or more times it would have surely been found, a couple of deg won't cause this which is what skimming the head/block would cause is only a couple of deg, even though it does sound like the exhaust cam timing, where the cams put in the right way around, obviously they are or the CAS wouldn't go in

My 32 has the cams adjusted over 10deg each way with no issues

Were all the sharp edges left from skimming head/block removed from both

When you dropped the exhaust on the dyno where did it get dropped from

What changed from before car was stolen and after getting it going again, cause if it was not having this issue before and is now then its clearly something that has been changed

What coils did you replace the melted ones with, did you change the coil loom and igniter as well

Try the CAS

[AngryRB]

What about the cooling system, if its the radiator that was on the car when the engine blew then could it be partially blocked and not flowing enough..

I know when mine was starting to overheat it would start pinging.

[portaz]

I had a problem where a alternator caused weird problems as ecu and presumably. Fuel pump not getting enough power causing havoc , check that coil pack harness and any other wiring that may have been melted curiously what does the nisstune log temps at when this happens?

[XKLABA]

Alternator was my next guess, what about the earth straps from motor the chassis, where they all put back on

[blah_blah]

For cam timing to be an issue it would have to be a few teeth out, and that is easy checked, and given they have done it three or more times it would have surely been found, a couple of deg won't cause this which is what skimming the head/block would cause is only a couple of deg, even though it does sound like the exhaust cam timing, where the cams put in the right way around, obviously they are or the CAS wouldn't go in

My 32 has the cams adjusted over 10deg each way with no issues

Were all the sharp edges left from skimming head/block removed from both

When you dropped the exhaust on the dyno where did it get dropped from

What changed from before car was stolen and after getting it going again, cause if it was not having this issue before and is now then its clearly something that has been changed

What coils did you replace the melted ones with, did you change the coil loom and igniter as well

Try the CAS

Not sure, Tuner dropped the exhaust

But my cat is a straight 3 inch pipe

Alot of the electical wiring remins from the overheated stolen car

Coils were replaced with new genuine nissan coils. Coil pack loom was taken from the new donor engine

We have a spare CAS so can test that

What about the cooling system, if its the radiator that was on the car when the engine blew then could it be partially blocked and not flowing enough..

I know when mine was starting to overheat it would start pinging.

Cooling system is fine, new 55?mm radiator when the engine was rebuild. Water temps stay quite cool on street and track

Alternator was my next guess, what about the earth straps from motor the chassis, where they all put back on

I had a problem where a alternator caused weird problems as ecu and presumably. Fuel pump not getting enough power causing havoc , check that coil pack harness and any other wiring that may have been melted curiously what does the nisstune log temps at when this happens?

Not sure, but when the pretty sure scotty checked fuel pump voltages when he put in the new one and all was ok

[Leroy Peterson]

probably the heater core lol

[portaz]

Fuel pump. Too close to bottom of tank can do it too, did u take the stock dampner off or leave it attached?

[blah_blah]

probably the heater core lol

Lol Leeroy, I heard your car was falsely accused of cam timing issues from a reputable workshop

Fuel pump. Too close to bottom of tank can do it too, did u take the stock dampner off or leave it attached?

Don't think it will be the fuel pump

Last year on the ss2 it was running an old walbro fuel pump and still had the issue

Anyways, no one has had a chance to touch the car since the tune as I am busy most weekdays, so will be good to run over a few things over the coming weekends to resolve the issue. It's always good to get some brainstorming ideas

[Missileman]

my uneducated logic tells me to check fuel pressure, air temp before and after IC, then exhaust temp, given you have already checked base and cam timing and injector flow.

[AngryRB]

JJR dump big enough for 3582?

Using a catch can or recirculating blow by?

PCV valve stuck open?

hot spots created by the shape of the pistons?

loose the air box

the cylinders 3 and 4 could be getting hit with oil leading to det?

This case sounds similar to Hanaldo's issues with top end, both 34's too.

Edited January 31, 2014 by AngryRB

[White GTS-T]

Does ANYBODY out there have the standard OEM camshaft timing specifications?

IO/IC/EO/EC & LSA for advertised AND @.050" specs??

If it helps, RB25DET ~ Solid type ~ Cam Duration (IN) 236° ~ Cam Duration (EX) 232° ~ Cam Lift (IN) 8.40mm ~ Cam Lift (EX) 8.70mm ~ Pre-Set Valve timing (IN) 119° ~ Pre-Set Valve timing (EX) 115° ~ NVCS Range (rpm) Below 5400.

[Leroy Peterson]

Lol Leeroy, I heard your car was falsely accused of cam timing issues from a reputable workshop

indeed. but the car wasn't running well and was dialled using a spec card in Japanese.

Using a catch can or recirculating blow by?

PCV valve stuck open?

loose the air box

the cylinders 3 and 4 could be getting hit with oil leading to det?

whilst these ideas are a stab in the dark (I think the issue would be different if these were the cause), they are easy to suss out.

look into the fumes put out when hitting the wall (oil, fuel, blow-by)

block PVC with a clamp or something.

remove air box/filter (since its hot today could force air via a fan if working at home)

could put a piece of paper or cardboard behind exhaust and see if it's spitting anything chunky (your paint is dark so hard to see)

just quick easy things to rule out some ideas

[XKLABA]

The cooling system was bleed properly yeah, cause if there is a air pocket in the head above the combustion chamber it will creat a hot spot

No cat and straight through exhaust will create no problems, it's usually the cat that creates this kind off issues

[blah_blah]

Just FYI in relation to cam timing

Dial indicator was used to determine true top dead centre. Not the best picture but is evident the cam timing is not issue

Were all the sharp edges left from skimming head/block removed from both

Yeah all sharp edges and burrs were removed in machining process

my uneducated logic tells me to check fuel pressure, air temp before and after IC, then exhaust temp, given you have already checked base and cam timing and injector flow.

Fuel pressure will be checked once the car is running but high on the list

[Missileman]

would be good to try another ecu, if your tuner has one on hand, there could be issues with the injector driver circuit????

fuel pressure is a longshot too, as you would think it would show up in the A/F ratio.

[hy_rpm]

What size cooler piping are you using?

Any oil inside you cooler from your old blown engine ?

I would say its the return flow intercooler as your in the 300kw area now

My brother had a similar problem in his 180sx

Return flow cooler would refuse to make over 230rwkw no matter what turbo

Finally just chopped the battery tray and fitted anormal china fmic kit bam 20kw extra straight up after numerous tunes turbo swaps cam swaps and cam gears dialed in

Nothing made a big difference till I got rid of the return flow

Edited February 2, 2014 by hy_rpm

[scotty nm35]

Apart from the fact he is using the stock cooler pipes in the engine bay, the HDI cooler and piping looks pretty good I thought. I have seen return flow coolers flow 400+ so I was pretty confident it would be fine... Joining the pipes for one run would prove that one I guess.

The cooler pipes are 3 inch from just after the stock rubbers exiting the engine bay.

[blah_blah]

Just realized on the weekend that I used my old CAS and coil pack loom from the destroyed engine

So have will put in spare ones I have

Just waiting on some gaskets coming this week before the car is running again + to do a fuel pressure test

Then off away to test if it fixes the issue

[scotty nm35]

Want to pressure test the intake too, just to make sure there are no leaks? Only need to get the airbox off, and clamp it in where the afm goes.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to put in the fuel line Tony?

[blah_blah]

I have access to all the testing equipment. Thanks Scotty