Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Id probably go with tein, pretty decent for their price. Then again, i dont think it will matter when it comes to N/A skylines. You wont be having a huge amount of power to push high end coilovers to their limit, nor do i think you will be doing track days with a n/a. Id probably just go with cheapy coilovers, provided they dont bottom out and that they do their jobs on the streets, which is basically all you need (im also guessing its more of a cosmetic mod without the compromise of handling/comfort). And good on ya for not dumping them on king springs, at least someone does something right.

Edited by Deza3000

How is buying cheap coilovers better than a set of Kings low and some B6s?

"provided they dont bottom out and do their jobs on the streets" "assuming its for a cosmetic look without the compromise of handling/comfort"

I thought i implied that it still needed to do their job on the streets. It doesnt have to be over the top expensive is what im trying to say, even 2k is pushing it. Second hand HKS could even be considered cheap. And im pretty sure you and i both know that King springs on stock shocks is a pretty stupid idea, any set of coilovers would do a better job than factory worn out shocks on cheap king springs.

Who said anything about stock dampers? Not I. I specifically said Bilsteins (B6). I would guarantee you that I could get any R32 from one place in Australia to another faster and more comfortably on ~4kg/mm Kings springs and a set of Bilsteins than you could on a set of 6/4 kg/mm (or worse, the typical 8/6 kg/mm) coilovers with crappy damping. Same car, just change the suspension units.

The fact is, a set of Kings lows will drop an R32 to pretty much exactly the legal height, are the right spring rate to work well on our crappy road surfaces, are comfortable and will last a long time. Mine have been in the car for all of this century so far, and they are as good as the day they went in. The Bilstein front dampers are still going strong, about the same age. The KYBs at the rear are dying. Most of the coilover bros around here would have been through 2 or three sets in the same time if they'd kept the same car.

Tyres are stock external diameter (235/45 on 17s). So the gap you see is what you get at lowest legal height. Car went through Regency last year and was pretty close to spot on for height.\

That's more luck than good management. Sydneykid's grooved (modified) Bilsteins might be required to get an arbitrary other car to the exact right height.

post-66906-0-11610800-1392813719_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...