Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok gys I've decided to start off with i will just go for

-Fender brace

-Floor brace (behind front seats)

-Tension rod bar (easy to find)

Not sure where I will get them from or what brand but hopefully I end up finding something.

Ultimately though The bracing I want to get most done was something to prevent Flex along the horizontal axis dead smack in the middle of the car, so thats why a multi point underbody brace would have been perfect, but I have yet to find one for a GTS.

Do you guys know what these braces are called and where to get them

trunk+brace.jpg

instaleld.jpg

Edited by sonicz

This whole topic just screams waste of money, sorry but i was young once and i spent money on useless items too but i didnt have these forums to learn from others though.

Dont waste your time or money on this car, drive it be satisfied and save to get something better in the future.

In truth all braces will do something. I remember when I first put my suspension tower brace on and there was in fact a noticeable difference provided you adjust it so it is actually putting tension on the towers. Then of course the usual Bilstein, coils thing. Big difference. Then after a few track days took the car off the road and decided stuff it, I'll start at the heart of the problem. The subframe. Every bush changed. Some difference there. Every suspension arm, bush, tie rods, ball joints, there is nothing left on that car that's sloppy. I love it, precise, sharp steering. Out of all that was changed I would have to say the biggest difference was the suspension arm bushes. Polyurethane everywhere. Steering rack as well. My experience anyway. Out on the track the car is worlds apart from the standard suspension. A side note: don't mistake flex at speed with the tyres fully loaded under cornering as chassis flex if you have street tyres on it, it's just side wall flex.

Those chassis braces you are looking at are seriously flawed but I suppose if all of them combined make a difference then go for it. Always remember the least flexing shape is a box. Putting chassis braces under the floor won't do much except give your suspension points less flex but your actual body will still be flexing. The proper way to do it would be to weld a 4 point cage in between front and back seats but only if welding the top of the cage to the top of the B-pillars. Now you have a far superior chassis to play with.

  • Like 1

What exactly are you comparing your car to? Mine feels plenty tight enough with softish coilovers, subframe collars, a couple of bushes changed to polyurethene ones and a front strut brace.

I think once I do sway bars ill be pretty damn happy with it, will be very nice for a street car

Does the car have any previous accident damage? Im not sure how tight you want it to be so not sure if its just something not quite right with the car or its just not quite at the standard you want

not sure if do-luck has it for your car but maybe u can get some ideas?

they have this brace along the length of the car... made of aluminium. called the floor support bar.

http://www.do-luck.com/tuningparts/assistbar/floorsupportbar/index.html

then there is the rear cross bar that sits behind the front seats to prevent mid chassis flex... worked wonders for my S13 then. u can even tension it.

http://www.do-luck.com/tuningparts/assistbar/rearcrossbar/index.html

also, nismo has something for the GTR... again, maybe it might give u some ideas? under floor reinforcing bar

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lb/reinforcing.html

Those Nismo ones that require you to bolt to the chassis rails would not be likely to be legal here in Aus. They require modification of the chassis rails which is generally a no no. Also, most Skyline chassis rails are already dented upwards in that area (already a defect) due to lack of ground clearance / driving over bricks or whatever. Bolting on something to further reduce clearance there isn't a great idea.

Just something else to think about.

^^ I think only the Ultra Racing brace reduces ground clearance, all the nismo brace don't do this, if you have a look at both picture on the nismo site, the lowest point if either the gearbox mount or exhaust

EDIT: The picture posted by Sonicz from the r33-gtr.com website is the stock brace that comes in s15s rear boot, just find someone wrecking s15s and you can easily score them for next to nothing

Edited by ichi-go

^^ I think only the Ultra Racing brace reduces ground clearance, all the nismo brace don't do this, if you have a look at both picture on the nismo site, the lowest point if either the gearbox mount or exhaust

EDIT: The picture posted by Sonicz from the r33-gtr.com website is the stock brace that comes in s15s rear boot, just find someone wrecking s15s and you can easily score them for next to nothing

No. Look at this one from Nismo

img_bnr34f.jpg

It's under the chassis rails.

Cage it from front to rear. 1.75"x.250" chromoly tubing. Put it on a frame jig to keep the uni-body frame straight. Only way to get what you're looking for. All this bracing from Japanese manufactures is big $$$$. Over priced for what it is to me. Find an actually race shop not just a average joe. Race shops been there and done that. Probably answer your questions better also.

Examples:

post-116132-13933971845538_thumb.jpgpost-116132-13933972005261_thumb.jpgpost-116132-13933972151734_thumb.jpg

Obviously this is a S-Chassis but it's all the same. Car gets tweaked every direction and all is good.

Do it. brace everything. Report back.

Thats not really the approach I can tak as it seems really difficult to come across some of these items let alone everything. I was hoping to find used bits here and there I can just bolt to the car for cheap, and to be honest I had my heart set on a multi point underbody brace the most. Definitely no roll cages and intrusive bars in the cabin.

So far just getting the tension rod bar and STILL looking for a fender brace but cant find one.

This whole topic just screams waste of money, sorry but i was young once and i spent money on useless items too but i didnt have these forums to learn from others though.

Dont waste your time or money on this car, drive it be satisfied and save to get something better in the future.

Yup that makes a lot of sense. I have seen wreckers selling parts or even throwing away body parts like this so I figured it would be a cheap exercise. I was wrong.

What exactly are you comparing your car to? Mine feels plenty tight enough with softish coilovers, subframe collars, a couple of bushes changed to polyurethene ones and a front strut brace.

I think once I do sway bars ill be pretty damn happy with it, will be very nice for a street car

Does the car have any previous accident damage? Im not sure how tight you want it to be so not sure if its just something not quite right with the car or its just not quite at the standard you want

I'm comparing my 33 to almost every other car I have driven, and it just creaks and bends and wobbles on driveways and over bumps. The chassis feels like its made of halumi cheese. It takes seconds for the body to finish reacting to a bump. I Have driven other R33s and they feel very stiff and taught in comparison.

Mine must've had a hard life since the previous owner lived in a rural area so probably many wobbly up down roads, and my driveway is on a funny sideways diagonal angle making the car softer each time I drive in and out.

Subframe collars probably did your car a lot of good. Mine is stock in that regard, but I do have some poly bushes and a strut bar.

Have a look at what this Japanese owner says about the body.

"3. Usual used GT-R's body have come loose. The parts to tighten such a loosen-body are available at HKS-Kansai.

These are the photos of my R33 GT-R, showing the body reinforcement parts, I installed the "refresh-bar" of HKS-Kansai. This parts is very good to reinforce the body. This refresh-bar is designed for not making sacrifices for daily use of the car."

http://www.geocities.jp/r33gtruser/usedgtr.html

Also have a look at what nissan did with the next few cars they built after the 33 and 34. Look at all the chassis bracing on a stock 350z.

http://youtu.be/aG6X72FS6gc?t=20m48s

not sure if do-luck has it for your car but maybe u can get some ideas?

then there is the rear cross bar that sits behind the front seats to prevent mid chassis flex... worked wonders for my S13 then. u can even tension it.

http://www.do-luck.com/tuningparts/assistbar/rearcrossbar/index.html

The 33 is listed there but not really sure how you order from there. I was hoping somebody has these bits used in AUS.

Edited by sonicz

just had another look at the products on the Ultra Racing site, and first thing tomorrow I am having my solicitors draft a letter to them requesting they change their name to Ultra-Anus, reflective of the usefulness of their parts. I would seriously look at the bolt-in cage idea for stiffening the chassis, a cusco cage, that allows use of front and rear seata, will only be about $850 delivered, which is only the price of a few of those braces, just in one lump sum.

It really does sound like you need new bushes mate, if the car takes a while to settle from a corner or a bump? Creaking? This would be due to worn out bushes and shocks.

If you can't afford all of them at once, just get upper and lower control arm bushes first, swaybar bushes are cheap. And then buy some solid strut tower bars front and rear and some sway bars front and rear and new shocks front and rear.

No. Look at this one from Nismo

img_bnr34f.jpg

It's under the chassis rails.

Yeah but if you look further down the pic towards the middle/side, you can see the gearbox crossmember is the same height as the brace hence why it wouldnt reduce clearance

The Ultra-Racing one however is different story as the mount where the bolts go to come downwards and will reduce clearance

EDIT: The picture posted by Sonicz from the r33-gtr.com website is the stock brace that comes in s15s rear boot, just find someone wrecking s15s and you can easily score them for next to nothing

st

Sorry I missed this. Its probably the most relevant post in this thread to me.

So you are saying that brace bar that runs accross the very back of the boot comes standard on all S15s and I can find one by looking for S15 wrecks and it will fit a ECR33 chassis?

Edited by sonicz

Sorry I missed this. Its probably the most relevant post in this thread to me.

So you are saying that brace bar that runs accross the very back of the boot comes standard on all S15s and I can find one by looking for S15 wrecks and it will fit a ECR33 chassis?

Yes

http://www.r33gt-r.com/2013/07/trunk-bar-another-noticeable.html

About fitting the ECR33, just look in your boot to see if there's any predrill holes, according to the blog, there is predrilled holes on r33 gtr series3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...