Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

So this is my first post, but not my first forum. I've searched this for a while now and havent come up with anything.

I LOVE the r34. Everything about it. My plan is to get an ENR34 Coupe. I would like the AWD because 1. It's AWD ;) 2. I live in Canada, and would like the AWD because I will probably have to drive the car in snow. So I was wondering, would it be possible/practical to throw an N/A 2jzge into the r34? Or would it make more sense to save up and just turbo the RB? I don't want a lot of power, I previously drove a 2000 Acura TL (or Honda Inspire. Excuse my ignorance, I don't know if you guys in Australia go by the Japanese names or Americanized). Anyway, that car had a Vtec J32 pushed about 225hp (sorry I dont know the conversion to KW) and it wasn't the fastest, but I liked it. So I don't need Godzilla, I just love the look of the Skyline. Now I know the 2jz is a great motor that you can pull a good amount of power out of with just bolt ons. I also know the rb25 n/a is the opposite lol. So what do you guys think? 2jz with bolt ons, or low boosted rb25?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439523-na-2jz-r34/
Share on other sites

Hmm 2jz on a AWD drivetrain. Not gonna work well, gonna be dumping a load of cash. If you love the r34 so much you probably wouldnt be wanting to sabotage that nissan integrity witha 2jz. Probably better off finding a stagea with a rb25det, and doing a swap. If i were you, id probably just go r34 GTR, its not over the top powerful from factory (320hp?), In fact its actually average for a turbo charged car, it just known to have huge potential for power with minor mods/cost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439523-na-2jz-r34/#findComment-7207293
Share on other sites

Oh I'd love a GTR but I can't afford it, and I'd probably never get insured here lol. Anyway, V28VX37, my plan is to get a factory awd skyline gt-4, id just like to know the best (and least expensive) way to get about 300hp out of it. From what I've read, it seems like its gonna be costly to get an rb25 to that point. So I thought about swapping to a faster n/a motor, again, cost factor (instead of swapping to something like 26dett. too much $$). Or, how much would I be looking at to get the rb25 to about 300hp? Bc like Deza said, I would like to keep the motor nissan ;)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439523-na-2jz-r34/#findComment-7207489
Share on other sites

^+1

I read on a thread here, that the word (including pictures) on the Stagea/AWD RB25DET is that the block is direct copy of the RB26DETT, due to the AWD sump not working with the RWD RB25DET block. Apparently the series 2 has the same rods as the RB26DETT as well.

The series 2 C34 NEO setup would be the go. 206kw (276bhp) at the crank standard. Turbo spool about 1800RPM full boost about 2200rpm with lots more potential!

Don't know what mine is putting out, but I run it at 10.5psi with a decent (GFB G-Force II) electronic boost controller, a HKS panel filter & a Kakimoto 3 1/4" cat back (way to big & not benecificial I know). Nistune is the next thing on the cards, as it's a daily.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439523-na-2jz-r34/#findComment-7207598
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...