Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry , all my english is UK english !

when i say hybrid turbo i mean flowed or having a new cartridge with alterations ,

the rb25det T3 mounted china bodied turbo was built by RSP in UK , replacing the cartridge but leaving stock turbine and compressor casings . It was fitted and ran for 1,000 miles before being removed and replaced with this flowed rb26 single unit .

thank you GTscotT and jay-rod 1st to offer any advise !

superben ... try calling him at work IT DONT HAPPEN , pull your head in

I will say that my loss of confidence has nothing to do with the skill that is possessed in this man`s tuning ability ! .


To get 398.9bhp from a single RB26 turbo on an RB25 is impressive !


many speak / write about 350bhp max for this set up .





BUT


It just dose not work on the road with an auto box -


if you cant pull away from a ford focus ST170 that has a slight missfire ! then there is something drastically wrong .


Hence why i asked BADLY this question


Im so confused.

Though I think what you are trying to say is you have something like a gt2871 or so comp and turbine wheels fitted to your existing rb25 turbo?

Because a standard rb26 t25 turbo would be lucky to make 150hp in single form.

We can't help you if you don't help us.

So from the beginning.

You have 550cc injectors, some mongrel high flow turbo and nistune?

But did I read that the ecu was tripe?

So what ecu are you using right now?

I wonder if they forgot to switch the vtc back on our something like that....there could be a simple reason for the low power...I would ask the tuner again to tee check power again. get the turbo measured so you know what you are working with. as others have said a t2 flanged turbo with the right housings can make the power. do you have the dyno graph?

The answer is very simple.

IF the tuner DID in fact fit a single RB26 turbo onto an RB25 it would be very easy to see. The flanges are not the same, there would have to be an adapter plate in there.

The RB26 turbo is about HALF the size of the stock turbo or the Ching-Chong hybrid. So it will be easy to see that you have half as much turbo down there.

The RB26 turbo (as said by guys above) is also only capable of about HALF as much power as an RB25 turbo (that's roughly, they're actually good for a bit more than half).

So there is NO WAY that a single RB26 turbo is actually making 400HP anywhere. It is not possible. So your tuner is lying to you and the real performance on the road (ie, slower than a FWD puss box) is the truth.

/thread.

thank you GTscotT and jay-rod 1st to offer any advise !

superben ... try calling him at work IT DONT HAPPEN , pull your head in

You are making so little sense. I along with others are trying to help you. That statement directed at me makes no sense.

How can you not be blaming the tuner? He fitted a retarded turbo then gave you a totally bullshit dyno graph and a car that doesnt drive well. And yiu dont blame him? Also first I ever heard fitting a s2 ecu to s1, those type of swaps always bring up annoying issues.

Now I am just hanging around for the lols, cos this thread is bringing them.

T3 rules.

Edited by superben

Exactly...

Kinda looks like an inexperienced person trying to get the answer he wants...

RSP Website mentions nothing about Highflowing also btw..

He should be speaking to the tuner...or taking pictures of this setup...

Give us some pictures and we can tell you what you have.

I just dont see a tuner swapping a turbo without someone's permission....

Unless he saw the china Fake, and was like....i dont want to deal with this...what do i have lying around the shop...oh yeh i upgraded that GTR a while ago...ill give him that.

I have actually built 3 RB engines , and many other types of engines , starting with bikes at 12 yrs old , so inexperience is not an issue but KNOWING WHAT TURBO to fit is another ball game .

I trusted the tuner to fit His turbo AGAINST MY SUGGESTION of upgrading the rear turbine on my already flowed Turbo Unit as

I had not heard any bad things about him = ONLY THAT = He dose himself no favours !!

My lack of correctly naming an RB26 and RB25 seems to be my down fall and amusing to some , :(

I have no idea what the dimensions of the RB26 `flowed`/ Hybrid turbo that was fitted by tuner , NOT THROUGH LACK OF ASKING EITHER !! , the only thing i can say is that it was not a 6 bolt elbow fixing unit !!!! , and until i pick the car up i will not know the dimensions of the Turbo i fitted =

MY China Turbo was built by an employee of RSP ... and all this info went with last failed PC ! .

but the minuet i get wagon back i will check turbo sizes out . and START AGAIN :)

.82 was looking at this - any thoughts ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200936427733?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Stagea S2 ECU is fitted as S1 ECU cannot be Nistuned or chipped . Some Owners use z32 ECU and R34GTT is also usable . UK tuners will only tune what systems they know ! , spent weeks phoning up tuners to see if they tuned HKS F/con ( no one can read Japanese script so F/con 1 is a no go , and they turn there noses up at F/con II ) ?? so this leaves a small window for getting a tuner to tune the system he likes and knows , hence i had a NIstune fitted as most tuners are happy to use .

What's the deal with that quote? I never said that.

Can you check fault codes on the ecu out if curiosity, they could explain the running poorly and bad shifting trans.

Turn their nose up at Fcon. lol.

Might want to revisit this if you already have the Fcon, you can get english Fcon Vpro software for certain versions if you have a search around, it works very well in my Stagea... Just no online support so you need a good tuner, which sounds like it may be a problem. :P

We need pics of your turbo to help. Otherwise, go with the Hypergear, proven performer.

  • 3 weeks later...

You will not get a Nistuned S2 Stagea ECU to run your S1 auto Stagea successfully.

Many tuners will not be able to tune HKS F-Con ecus because they will not have the necessary software.

Your best solution is to piggy back a Greddy E-manage on to the stock S1 ECU and the ultimate fix is to dump the auto and put a GTR box in there and then you can run any ECU you want (that you can find a tuner for)or then you can use the Nistuned S2 ecu (if wired correctly).

  • 2 weeks later...

Car is now on way back to me ! ON A TRAILER .

Ben is correct !! although S2 ECU will run the engine IT WILL NOT RUN S1 Autobox .

So somehow the tuner managed to rolling road it - with his turbo !! - and get 398.8BHP at the fly ( torque converter ) ........ hence i say that the tuner IS A TUNER and He did his job !

BUT ..........

I still dont know how a rolling road works and produces a figure when the gearbox is not working correctly ??

although I Have heard that tuners LOCK ?? gearbox in 3rd and tune !?

The tuner later told me that the Turbo actually fitted was a T25/28 unit , and my 6 bolt elbow was removed as the wastegate fouled on the elbow port , thus me being told by another person ( normally spot on with his RB info ! ) that it must have been a T2 turbo fitted ( T2 being manifold flange size ) from an RB26DETT twin set up !

What i don`t understand is how my `none working` car was handed back to me with no power and a print out for 398.8bhp !!

I also still don`t understand why when i returned to the yard moments later no one was interested to know why i was back and what was wrong !

So I was left £1,800 lighter ! , with a car that was slower than when i drove in 6 months earlier !! ??

I did however receive a Scratched bonnet - broken window wind deflector ( irreplaceable ) - a dead alternator from over using the boost pack ( verified possible by other mechanics !! ) - and a dead battery which was brand new when i dropped it off .

AND ADD A £100.00 FINE FROM DVLA , as they did not insure my car while it was there , as i asked them to ! , "normal practice for ALL garages if your car is to be with them for some time" . Both covers damage done !!! LOL and for testing on road - AT NO EXTRA COST TO THEM EITHER!!!

I was offered £50 off for this damage !

I DO HOPE THIS IS THE END OF THE THREAD !!! HA BLOODY HA

You will not get a Nistuned S2 Stagea ECU to run your S1 auto Stagea successfully.

Many tuners will not be able to tune HKS F-Con ecus because they will not have the necessary software.

Your best solution is to piggy back a Greddy E-manage on to the stock S1 ECU and the ultimate fix is to dump the auto and put a GTR box in there and then you can run any ECU you want (that you can find a tuner for)or then you can use the Nistuned S2 ecu (if wired correctly).

Good info ! shame i could not find b4 this episode !! lol

Not going manual as have arthritis ( and a GTR anyway )

Thanks for info though .................

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...