Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry , all my english is UK english !

when i say hybrid turbo i mean flowed or having a new cartridge with alterations ,

the rb25det T3 mounted china bodied turbo was built by RSP in UK , replacing the cartridge but leaving stock turbine and compressor casings . It was fitted and ran for 1,000 miles before being removed and replaced with this flowed rb26 single unit .

thank you GTscotT and jay-rod 1st to offer any advise !

superben ... try calling him at work IT DONT HAPPEN , pull your head in

I will say that my loss of confidence has nothing to do with the skill that is possessed in this man`s tuning ability ! .


To get 398.9bhp from a single RB26 turbo on an RB25 is impressive !


many speak / write about 350bhp max for this set up .





BUT


It just dose not work on the road with an auto box -


if you cant pull away from a ford focus ST170 that has a slight missfire ! then there is something drastically wrong .


Hence why i asked BADLY this question


Im so confused.

Though I think what you are trying to say is you have something like a gt2871 or so comp and turbine wheels fitted to your existing rb25 turbo?

Because a standard rb26 t25 turbo would be lucky to make 150hp in single form.

We can't help you if you don't help us.

So from the beginning.

You have 550cc injectors, some mongrel high flow turbo and nistune?

But did I read that the ecu was tripe?

So what ecu are you using right now?

I wonder if they forgot to switch the vtc back on our something like that....there could be a simple reason for the low power...I would ask the tuner again to tee check power again. get the turbo measured so you know what you are working with. as others have said a t2 flanged turbo with the right housings can make the power. do you have the dyno graph?

The answer is very simple.

IF the tuner DID in fact fit a single RB26 turbo onto an RB25 it would be very easy to see. The flanges are not the same, there would have to be an adapter plate in there.

The RB26 turbo is about HALF the size of the stock turbo or the Ching-Chong hybrid. So it will be easy to see that you have half as much turbo down there.

The RB26 turbo (as said by guys above) is also only capable of about HALF as much power as an RB25 turbo (that's roughly, they're actually good for a bit more than half).

So there is NO WAY that a single RB26 turbo is actually making 400HP anywhere. It is not possible. So your tuner is lying to you and the real performance on the road (ie, slower than a FWD puss box) is the truth.

/thread.

thank you GTscotT and jay-rod 1st to offer any advise !

superben ... try calling him at work IT DONT HAPPEN , pull your head in

You are making so little sense. I along with others are trying to help you. That statement directed at me makes no sense.

How can you not be blaming the tuner? He fitted a retarded turbo then gave you a totally bullshit dyno graph and a car that doesnt drive well. And yiu dont blame him? Also first I ever heard fitting a s2 ecu to s1, those type of swaps always bring up annoying issues.

Now I am just hanging around for the lols, cos this thread is bringing them.

T3 rules.

Edited by superben

Exactly...

Kinda looks like an inexperienced person trying to get the answer he wants...

RSP Website mentions nothing about Highflowing also btw..

He should be speaking to the tuner...or taking pictures of this setup...

Give us some pictures and we can tell you what you have.

I just dont see a tuner swapping a turbo without someone's permission....

Unless he saw the china Fake, and was like....i dont want to deal with this...what do i have lying around the shop...oh yeh i upgraded that GTR a while ago...ill give him that.

I have actually built 3 RB engines , and many other types of engines , starting with bikes at 12 yrs old , so inexperience is not an issue but KNOWING WHAT TURBO to fit is another ball game .

I trusted the tuner to fit His turbo AGAINST MY SUGGESTION of upgrading the rear turbine on my already flowed Turbo Unit as

I had not heard any bad things about him = ONLY THAT = He dose himself no favours !!

My lack of correctly naming an RB26 and RB25 seems to be my down fall and amusing to some , :(

I have no idea what the dimensions of the RB26 `flowed`/ Hybrid turbo that was fitted by tuner , NOT THROUGH LACK OF ASKING EITHER !! , the only thing i can say is that it was not a 6 bolt elbow fixing unit !!!! , and until i pick the car up i will not know the dimensions of the Turbo i fitted =

MY China Turbo was built by an employee of RSP ... and all this info went with last failed PC ! .

but the minuet i get wagon back i will check turbo sizes out . and START AGAIN :)

.82 was looking at this - any thoughts ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200936427733?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Stagea S2 ECU is fitted as S1 ECU cannot be Nistuned or chipped . Some Owners use z32 ECU and R34GTT is also usable . UK tuners will only tune what systems they know ! , spent weeks phoning up tuners to see if they tuned HKS F/con ( no one can read Japanese script so F/con 1 is a no go , and they turn there noses up at F/con II ) ?? so this leaves a small window for getting a tuner to tune the system he likes and knows , hence i had a NIstune fitted as most tuners are happy to use .

What's the deal with that quote? I never said that.

Can you check fault codes on the ecu out if curiosity, they could explain the running poorly and bad shifting trans.

Turn their nose up at Fcon. lol.

Might want to revisit this if you already have the Fcon, you can get english Fcon Vpro software for certain versions if you have a search around, it works very well in my Stagea... Just no online support so you need a good tuner, which sounds like it may be a problem. :P

We need pics of your turbo to help. Otherwise, go with the Hypergear, proven performer.

  • 3 weeks later...

You will not get a Nistuned S2 Stagea ECU to run your S1 auto Stagea successfully.

Many tuners will not be able to tune HKS F-Con ecus because they will not have the necessary software.

Your best solution is to piggy back a Greddy E-manage on to the stock S1 ECU and the ultimate fix is to dump the auto and put a GTR box in there and then you can run any ECU you want (that you can find a tuner for)or then you can use the Nistuned S2 ecu (if wired correctly).

  • 2 weeks later...

Car is now on way back to me ! ON A TRAILER .

Ben is correct !! although S2 ECU will run the engine IT WILL NOT RUN S1 Autobox .

So somehow the tuner managed to rolling road it - with his turbo !! - and get 398.8BHP at the fly ( torque converter ) ........ hence i say that the tuner IS A TUNER and He did his job !

BUT ..........

I still dont know how a rolling road works and produces a figure when the gearbox is not working correctly ??

although I Have heard that tuners LOCK ?? gearbox in 3rd and tune !?

The tuner later told me that the Turbo actually fitted was a T25/28 unit , and my 6 bolt elbow was removed as the wastegate fouled on the elbow port , thus me being told by another person ( normally spot on with his RB info ! ) that it must have been a T2 turbo fitted ( T2 being manifold flange size ) from an RB26DETT twin set up !

What i don`t understand is how my `none working` car was handed back to me with no power and a print out for 398.8bhp !!

I also still don`t understand why when i returned to the yard moments later no one was interested to know why i was back and what was wrong !

So I was left £1,800 lighter ! , with a car that was slower than when i drove in 6 months earlier !! ??

I did however receive a Scratched bonnet - broken window wind deflector ( irreplaceable ) - a dead alternator from over using the boost pack ( verified possible by other mechanics !! ) - and a dead battery which was brand new when i dropped it off .

AND ADD A £100.00 FINE FROM DVLA , as they did not insure my car while it was there , as i asked them to ! , "normal practice for ALL garages if your car is to be with them for some time" . Both covers damage done !!! LOL and for testing on road - AT NO EXTRA COST TO THEM EITHER!!!

I was offered £50 off for this damage !

I DO HOPE THIS IS THE END OF THE THREAD !!! HA BLOODY HA

You will not get a Nistuned S2 Stagea ECU to run your S1 auto Stagea successfully.

Many tuners will not be able to tune HKS F-Con ecus because they will not have the necessary software.

Your best solution is to piggy back a Greddy E-manage on to the stock S1 ECU and the ultimate fix is to dump the auto and put a GTR box in there and then you can run any ECU you want (that you can find a tuner for)or then you can use the Nistuned S2 ecu (if wired correctly).

Good info ! shame i could not find b4 this episode !! lol

Not going manual as have arthritis ( and a GTR anyway )

Thanks for info though .................

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...