Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Perhaps it is just that Im a ham fisted monkey, but, I have been having trouble with the 3/4 cluster in my R33 gtst box. I find that the 3 tin clips that hold the selector dog fold the ends off if they get rushed. Then soon after they fall out and the dog doesnt mesh onto the syncro or gear making the shift clunky/grindy as all get out. Most other boxes have a solid blocker system, like the setup in the 1-2 cluster and is much more robust.

Initially the tripple plate clutch was swapped out for a good single to reduce drag on the input shaft, which helped, but now that I'm giving the GT3's a hurry up at Morgan Park, I am pushing through the gears and tending to stress these clips and having to replace them every meeting.

How do you guys fair with the clips?

What did the old group A 32's do? They have the same gear set, we have actually have a 32 gtr gear set in at the moment. It was a cheeper option for a spare set on rotation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440189-gearbox-mods-for-racing/
Share on other sites

We have added an extra guide to the 3/4 selector fork, the thought is that the selector dog isn't supported propperly and can fall over. The extra guide might help maintain it in an upright position and take some of the load off the 3 clips. We will get this set back toghther and test it out at Lakeside this weekend.

post-15176-0-31939300-1394421223_thumb.jpg

Edited by Noddy

That's a good idea, interested in how this develops - the SR20 box has the same issue too. I'll have a look when I'm in the workshop tomorrow but perhaps there's a way of going to some sort of spring and key in the hub, rather than the clip arrangement (I can't quite picture the setup at the moment)? I know it would be a bit of machining but may be worth it if it's a recurring issue.

There is a few people Ive spoken to in the last few days who have done similar things with good results. Tig welding extra material in at the top, machining it back to make a slipper pad has been a suggestion too.

I spoke to a guy who worked on the groupA 32's, They used hollinger inturnals. We spoke to Hollinger not long ago about getting some gearsets made up for the Nc RX2's we run (Hollinger used to make them a few years back) but, they were not interested... unless we were going to order 1000 sets. I fear that the gtr stuff will be in the same basket.

lol, and nissan are out of the stupid clips and 3/4 syncros....

because you've personally killed them all!

sorry I am no gearbox expert but with the GTR box I do know there were changes for the last series (series 3 r33), and that the old design was made obsolete. Since the internals are similar/the same are there any series 3 changes you can apply to your box?

BTW great to hear the old girl is still hustling around tracks nicely :)

yep, She has had 2 years sitting in the corner. I picked up a levin on my last trip to Japan and, it has distracted me for a little while. There is a new motor in the pipeline, a pretty silly 26/30. It's all together on the engine stand ready to go in the front cut that came off the black 33 (from the aust titles) for a fit out for a custom dry sump, mounts, piping etc. Then Ill just swap it into the yellow 1. You have to race at Lakeside some day. It'll blow your socks off Duncan.

The changes made worked well at lakeside: however, I was in 4th and 5th for most of the lap there so whasn't much of a work load for the hub. The only time I had an issue was on a down shift when I messed the double clutch up with out enough revs.

  • 3 weeks later...

Have a look at upgrading to an R34 3/4 synchro/sliding hub setup, they use solid type key.

D22 navara's also use some of the same gear just under different numbers, but it is hit and miss with the models

  • 3 weeks later...

General question for those doing track days in R32/R33 GTR's... what gearboxes are you running and power are you racing with?

I am looking at some options at the moment; the OS Gearset seems to be the most cost effective with the 1-5 kit, billet shaft and billet plate totalling just over $3.3k... but I am not sure how many people are racing with them?

Anything after that like a PPG well you can multiply by x3 just to get a gearset without a billet shaft.

I am starting to think just be gentle with the stock one and put the pennies away.

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...