Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Perhaps it is just that Im a ham fisted monkey, but, I have been having trouble with the 3/4 cluster in my R33 gtst box. I find that the 3 tin clips that hold the selector dog fold the ends off if they get rushed. Then soon after they fall out and the dog doesnt mesh onto the syncro or gear making the shift clunky/grindy as all get out. Most other boxes have a solid blocker system, like the setup in the 1-2 cluster and is much more robust.

Initially the tripple plate clutch was swapped out for a good single to reduce drag on the input shaft, which helped, but now that I'm giving the GT3's a hurry up at Morgan Park, I am pushing through the gears and tending to stress these clips and having to replace them every meeting.

How do you guys fair with the clips?

What did the old group A 32's do? They have the same gear set, we have actually have a 32 gtr gear set in at the moment. It was a cheeper option for a spare set on rotation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440189-gearbox-mods-for-racing/
Share on other sites

We have added an extra guide to the 3/4 selector fork, the thought is that the selector dog isn't supported propperly and can fall over. The extra guide might help maintain it in an upright position and take some of the load off the 3 clips. We will get this set back toghther and test it out at Lakeside this weekend.

post-15176-0-31939300-1394421223_thumb.jpg

Edited by Noddy

That's a good idea, interested in how this develops - the SR20 box has the same issue too. I'll have a look when I'm in the workshop tomorrow but perhaps there's a way of going to some sort of spring and key in the hub, rather than the clip arrangement (I can't quite picture the setup at the moment)? I know it would be a bit of machining but may be worth it if it's a recurring issue.

There is a few people Ive spoken to in the last few days who have done similar things with good results. Tig welding extra material in at the top, machining it back to make a slipper pad has been a suggestion too.

I spoke to a guy who worked on the groupA 32's, They used hollinger inturnals. We spoke to Hollinger not long ago about getting some gearsets made up for the Nc RX2's we run (Hollinger used to make them a few years back) but, they were not interested... unless we were going to order 1000 sets. I fear that the gtr stuff will be in the same basket.

lol, and nissan are out of the stupid clips and 3/4 syncros....

because you've personally killed them all!

sorry I am no gearbox expert but with the GTR box I do know there were changes for the last series (series 3 r33), and that the old design was made obsolete. Since the internals are similar/the same are there any series 3 changes you can apply to your box?

BTW great to hear the old girl is still hustling around tracks nicely :)

yep, She has had 2 years sitting in the corner. I picked up a levin on my last trip to Japan and, it has distracted me for a little while. There is a new motor in the pipeline, a pretty silly 26/30. It's all together on the engine stand ready to go in the front cut that came off the black 33 (from the aust titles) for a fit out for a custom dry sump, mounts, piping etc. Then Ill just swap it into the yellow 1. You have to race at Lakeside some day. It'll blow your socks off Duncan.

The changes made worked well at lakeside: however, I was in 4th and 5th for most of the lap there so whasn't much of a work load for the hub. The only time I had an issue was on a down shift when I messed the double clutch up with out enough revs.

  • 3 weeks later...

Have a look at upgrading to an R34 3/4 synchro/sliding hub setup, they use solid type key.

D22 navara's also use some of the same gear just under different numbers, but it is hit and miss with the models

  • 3 weeks later...

General question for those doing track days in R32/R33 GTR's... what gearboxes are you running and power are you racing with?

I am looking at some options at the moment; the OS Gearset seems to be the most cost effective with the 1-5 kit, billet shaft and billet plate totalling just over $3.3k... but I am not sure how many people are racing with them?

Anything after that like a PPG well you can multiply by x3 just to get a gearset without a billet shaft.

I am starting to think just be gentle with the stock one and put the pennies away.

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...