Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

E42 (42.5) just happens to be where I can get acceptable injector control and its easy to mix . Now that the United near work has it it's easy to get . Eflex is closer to home but 50 50 with that is E35 and they charge a bit more per litre of ethanol than United does . If you try to make E42 out of Eflex you need 12 of that and 8 of 98 and it gets too easy to screw it up . I have red jerries and black ones and add one of each in the high price cycle times out of my stash , bought when the cycle is low . Fug the Oil co's .

What injectors are you currently running again? I recall something off the shelf Jap ones.

Why not just run straight E85/80 (whatever us coming out of yhe bowser)? I'll put my car on the juice when it's tax return time, that way we can have a better comparison on ignition maps :)

What do you mean OE style Disco?

The short EV14's are 750, 1000 and 2000. There are also the new short 1400cc stainless internal e85 injectors...

If only someone would make an adapter to use top feeds in the side feed rail. You have the Neo rail there though don't you?

Yeah a while back I bought a Neo , Stag actually , fuel rail from Just Jap . I gather later RB Stags are the same as GTt rail wise ?

By OE I meant unmodified standard Bosch , I was wondering if they did anything in the 5-600cc range . I'd like to see the difference spray pattern wise between their biggest standard EV14 and a modified one like an Xspurt or ID . You're probably going to say just buy a set of those , I'm just trying to explore all possibilities to get the best all round result and accurate injector control is part of that . I'd like to be able to have 15:1 petrol type cruise mixtures and to do that I reckon you need injectors with good patterns at low flow rates .

1400cc versions I've only heard mentioned once before , I thought the stainless ones were 1300cc .

Latest update is that slightly more advanced timing did help the up to atmo manifold pressure and low boost torque even at sub 2000 revs . I suppose every time you take restrictions out of a turbo engines hot side you can screw more timing in at least at low boost pressures . Torque wise it's getting more like what the GTRS could do at low revs but mainly at constant loads and speeds , asking it to spin up and make power from low revs/gears and an accelerating engine is a different story . This would be the greater inertia and larger housings causing the turbine to lag behind engine revs until there is enough exhaust energy to kick it in the ribs .

Anyhow I'll give it a bit more advance in the same areas and see if it continues to Improve . Injectors have to wait a bit longer $ wise ATM but that will be the next mod .

A .

Not all the Xspurt injectors are modified, the smaller ones such as 300, 525 are original, they trim the plate off the front to extend the flow rates to 750 and 1000. These still have a great spray pattern though when compared to other 1000's, but they like high fuel pressure.

The 1400cc stainless injectors aren't a Bosch core, they are a new Denso or something. Not even listed under their Xspurt brand... I haven't tried a set yet, although I was thinking of upgrading mine to them at some point. I will be buying a set for the Evo too no doubt, as they are the largest petrol injector they have available, and it's designed for ethanol/methanol.

http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.php?cid=74&scid=11

  • 5 months later...

Have had some interesting conversations with fairly on the know Garrett associated people's.... which made me think of Disco. The impending releases may result in some interesting threads appearing ;)

Let me guess. They're finally releasing the NS111 turbine in GT30 size?

I've made one my self, Its horribly laggy, I then decided to grind it down to 55mm for drive ability. There is a good reason why GT30x was made with an extra blade in the wheel. Take GTRS reading, using identical blade profile, every 1mm increase in diameter = 150RPM of lag, so you can work it out.

  • Like 1

About the only thing the TR30 turbine shared roughly was the exducer diameter at ~ 60mm .

Turbine housings were also unique as were the style of compressor wheel screwed on the other end .

The GT30 UHP turbine , like most in that family , were designed for diesel applications and partly the reason why the trim size is 84 . HKS merely asked Garrett to cast them in higher temp materials and fit a shaft to suit the GT25BB centre sections .

As for the smaller NS111 turbine , I always thought it looked like a development of the one used in the GTiRs T28 turbo . They were 10 bladed and used a larger 79 trim size from memory , both the car and the turbo were a flop effectively .

Everyone including Garretts engineers know they can do better than the GT30 UHP but I reckon they only ever will for an OE high volume app where someone else is paying the development costs .

BW seems to have the best all round turbines ATM so if Garrett is serious about being competitive the materials have to change .

A .

The 48T was the smallest and the 52 the mid trim .

Too busy with other things like working all round the clock and Saturday Sunday are just another day .

When I can get enough days off together it'll eventually go to Insight for a change of injectors rail reg and a tune .

I recently changed back to EFlex because the altered E85 made my car grumpy and gave poor fuel consumption - no matter how I tuned it . Plus I was paying 116.9L for E70 and its closer to home . United is near work but if I changed jobs its a 90 min round trip to replentish my stash - screw that . Getting ~ 400/tank mostly round town .

What I can say for sure is that this 52T is not laggy with a 0.82 IW housing , the engine itself could make a little more bottom end torque but its 148K old now and probably getting tired . 18 year old car with turbo tech that's older than that .

A .

Let me guess. They're finally releasing the NS111 turbine in GT30 size?

Not necessarily that - but possibly to similar effect in terms of frustration for the likes of yourself and Disco. We shall see.

Not necessarily that - but possibly to similar effect in terms of frustration for the likes of yourself and Disco. We shall see.

Something which sits in the 50lb/min flow range would have been my second guess...

Such a tease.

  • 2 weeks later...

You won't find anything, yet - but trust me, there will be stuff soon. I'm figuring you know me well enough that I won't say something like this unfounded :)

As a general idea, expect to see gaps filled in the Garrett turbine range... for sake of arguement, between GT28 and GT30s, GT30s and GT35s and GT35s and GT40s - and where necessary, the compressors to suit the matches.

An interesting one for example will probably be the GTW3476R :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...