Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wonder if this has massive effect on my misfiring issue :(

attachicon.gifBattery Voltage.JPG

well that aint right, so have you probed the alternator terminals ?

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442670-alternator-problems-some-answers-inside/

a little hard with all my pipe work and hoses in the way.. however I will pull it off after the track day and test it..

lucky car runs a map sensor so will run fine without any hoses attached

will report back :)

if that's the case will need to run new power cabling as suggested, however my battery is in the boot!!

a little hard with all my pipe work and hoses in the way.. however I will pull it off after the track day and test it..

lucky car runs a map sensor so will run fine without any hoses attached

will report back :)

if that's the case will need to run new power cabling as suggested, however my battery is in the boot!!

just crawl under the car and probe it

try running the 2nd power cable to the jump start terminal from the alternator if the factory cable is bad

Edited by Dan_J
  • 2 weeks later...

Why bother. As mentioned the ls coils have been tried and proven and are cheap.

No way would motorbike coils be cheap.

You would be surprised, motorbike coils are that dear, though I still can't find where it says these are motor bike coils, they look like Honda replacement coils, does anyone have a link to where we could that upgrade from :)

Scott at insight and I have discussed a coil upgrade for my 34 some time ago and he suggested Honda coils would be a good upgrade and would mean I wouldn't have to remote mount them or have to run leads

just crawl under the car and probe it

try running the 2nd power cable to the jump start terminal from the alternator if the factory cable is bad

Followed your advice, did a probe when cold voltage was about ~13.6 and down to ~13.2 when I revved it..

Tried it again when the car was hot (after a drive to the shops & back) voltage was around ~13 on idle and dropped to about ~12.8 when I revved it.

This is pretty consistent to the drop I've logged from my ECU.

Now to waste more money :(

Nice, got any more pics of that setup ?

not my setup but have all the bits to get it working :)

skim through the older pages of the thread to find the origin of the photo

Followed your advice, did a probe when cold voltage was about ~13.6 and down to ~13.2 when I revved it..

Tried it again when the car was hot (after a drive to the shops & back) voltage was around ~13 on idle and dropped to about ~12.8 when I revved it.

This is pretty consistent to the drop I've logged from my ECU.

Now to waste more money :(

yeah mine was a bit intermittent, after constant use the heat in the cable may make the power drop as well .

pretty cheap fix for myself:

$8- ba ford starter cable from wreckers

$5/10 - battery lugs from jaycar

keep the factory cable there and just add another positive cable to terminal in the engine bay to see if its a fix, if not will have to get a 2nd hand cable from a r33 wreck, welding store for the use of welder ground cable which i'm told is priced ok or ebay ;)

^ you're lucky it was just the power cabling.. I tested it on the alternator itself and the voltage was fluctuating...

I'm guessing it's tired, it is an 18 year old car with probably 400 000km on in after everyone having a go at winding back the odometer lol

I had some misfire on boost before I tuned my car last week, that cleared up after installing some ls2 coils I bought 2nd hand for 150 bucks, basically at the stock 2.5 ms dwell they were igniting a mix that was to rich for the stock coils to ignite, set up as coil on plug in wasted spark on an adaptronic 420d, trimmed the stock boot down and put em straight on the plug. Peice of aluminium angle with a few holes and all mounted nice.

After tuning on weds, I'm making 196rwkw with stock turbo, and stock injectors, only at a touch under a bar boost on shell 98

post-92228-0-54348000-1415354654_thumb.jpg

Edited by Scott Black
  • 5 weeks later...

Installed my kit from Rick B at Mojo Performance and the engine is not starting. A few things to note. I have a piggy-back HKS FCon V-Pro ECU that is already tuned. Fully built forged motor with billet crank, Bullseye 375R turbo boosting 2.2 bar, redline set to 9500 rpm, 270 degree 10.8mm lift cams, high flow head, 1000cc Sard injectors, NGK Racing (temp 8 or 9) iridium spark plugs. ECU is still set to stock dwell so I thought I would plug in the new LQ9 coils (Araparts version) and Mojo wiring to test before having my tuner mess with the dwell settings. Well, the car won't start and misfires occasionally during the attempt to start. Any ideas? Is my setup to aggressive for stock dwell? Not enough spark at stock dwell settings? Or is something else going on?

Your setup would have no affect when cranking, and stock dwell will work you coils pretty well, so setting is seriously wrong.

Have you checked voltage ar the coils? Was there another earth to install?

I'm not familiar with that kit, is it possible to connect the coil loom in the wrong order?

Edited by Ben C34

Your setup would have no affect when cranking, and stock dwell will work you coils pretty well, so setting is seriously wrong.

Have you checked voltage ar the coils? Was there another earth to install?

I'm not familiar with that kit, is it possible to connect the coil loom in the wrong order?

I thought the same (that it should start and run at idle at the very least).

No, I have not had a chance to check voltage at the coils yet. I need to do that. Yes the harness has it's own ground that I have connected/grounded along with the engine harness ground using one of the bolts for the mounting kit that screws into the head.

No, I don't think it's possible to connect the individual connectors in the harness in the wrong order. Also, the kit comes color coded and with a great install diagram to match up to the stock wiring. I verified the colors on all wires and they appear to be accurate.

I don't know anyone first hand who has used the LQ9 coils connected to an HKS FCon V-Pro ECU. Also, the cam timing is not zeroed out so there is some overlap at idle.

The Mojo Performance kit is a plug on coil setup and I have read that without the resistance of the plug wires or resistor type spark plugs that there could be an issue as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...