Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wonder if this has massive effect on my misfiring issue :(

attachicon.gifBattery Voltage.JPG

well that aint right, so have you probed the alternator terminals ?

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442670-alternator-problems-some-answers-inside/

a little hard with all my pipe work and hoses in the way.. however I will pull it off after the track day and test it..

lucky car runs a map sensor so will run fine without any hoses attached

will report back :)

if that's the case will need to run new power cabling as suggested, however my battery is in the boot!!

a little hard with all my pipe work and hoses in the way.. however I will pull it off after the track day and test it..

lucky car runs a map sensor so will run fine without any hoses attached

will report back :)

if that's the case will need to run new power cabling as suggested, however my battery is in the boot!!

just crawl under the car and probe it

try running the 2nd power cable to the jump start terminal from the alternator if the factory cable is bad

Edited by Dan_J
  • 2 weeks later...

Why bother. As mentioned the ls coils have been tried and proven and are cheap.

No way would motorbike coils be cheap.

You would be surprised, motorbike coils are that dear, though I still can't find where it says these are motor bike coils, they look like Honda replacement coils, does anyone have a link to where we could that upgrade from :)

Scott at insight and I have discussed a coil upgrade for my 34 some time ago and he suggested Honda coils would be a good upgrade and would mean I wouldn't have to remote mount them or have to run leads

just crawl under the car and probe it

try running the 2nd power cable to the jump start terminal from the alternator if the factory cable is bad

Followed your advice, did a probe when cold voltage was about ~13.6 and down to ~13.2 when I revved it..

Tried it again when the car was hot (after a drive to the shops & back) voltage was around ~13 on idle and dropped to about ~12.8 when I revved it.

This is pretty consistent to the drop I've logged from my ECU.

Now to waste more money :(

Nice, got any more pics of that setup ?

not my setup but have all the bits to get it working :)

skim through the older pages of the thread to find the origin of the photo

Followed your advice, did a probe when cold voltage was about ~13.6 and down to ~13.2 when I revved it..

Tried it again when the car was hot (after a drive to the shops & back) voltage was around ~13 on idle and dropped to about ~12.8 when I revved it.

This is pretty consistent to the drop I've logged from my ECU.

Now to waste more money :(

yeah mine was a bit intermittent, after constant use the heat in the cable may make the power drop as well .

pretty cheap fix for myself:

$8- ba ford starter cable from wreckers

$5/10 - battery lugs from jaycar

keep the factory cable there and just add another positive cable to terminal in the engine bay to see if its a fix, if not will have to get a 2nd hand cable from a r33 wreck, welding store for the use of welder ground cable which i'm told is priced ok or ebay ;)

^ you're lucky it was just the power cabling.. I tested it on the alternator itself and the voltage was fluctuating...

I'm guessing it's tired, it is an 18 year old car with probably 400 000km on in after everyone having a go at winding back the odometer lol

I had some misfire on boost before I tuned my car last week, that cleared up after installing some ls2 coils I bought 2nd hand for 150 bucks, basically at the stock 2.5 ms dwell they were igniting a mix that was to rich for the stock coils to ignite, set up as coil on plug in wasted spark on an adaptronic 420d, trimmed the stock boot down and put em straight on the plug. Peice of aluminium angle with a few holes and all mounted nice.

After tuning on weds, I'm making 196rwkw with stock turbo, and stock injectors, only at a touch under a bar boost on shell 98

post-92228-0-54348000-1415354654_thumb.jpg

Edited by Scott Black
  • 5 weeks later...

Installed my kit from Rick B at Mojo Performance and the engine is not starting. A few things to note. I have a piggy-back HKS FCon V-Pro ECU that is already tuned. Fully built forged motor with billet crank, Bullseye 375R turbo boosting 2.2 bar, redline set to 9500 rpm, 270 degree 10.8mm lift cams, high flow head, 1000cc Sard injectors, NGK Racing (temp 8 or 9) iridium spark plugs. ECU is still set to stock dwell so I thought I would plug in the new LQ9 coils (Araparts version) and Mojo wiring to test before having my tuner mess with the dwell settings. Well, the car won't start and misfires occasionally during the attempt to start. Any ideas? Is my setup to aggressive for stock dwell? Not enough spark at stock dwell settings? Or is something else going on?

Your setup would have no affect when cranking, and stock dwell will work you coils pretty well, so setting is seriously wrong.

Have you checked voltage ar the coils? Was there another earth to install?

I'm not familiar with that kit, is it possible to connect the coil loom in the wrong order?

Edited by Ben C34

Your setup would have no affect when cranking, and stock dwell will work you coils pretty well, so setting is seriously wrong.

Have you checked voltage ar the coils? Was there another earth to install?

I'm not familiar with that kit, is it possible to connect the coil loom in the wrong order?

I thought the same (that it should start and run at idle at the very least).

No, I have not had a chance to check voltage at the coils yet. I need to do that. Yes the harness has it's own ground that I have connected/grounded along with the engine harness ground using one of the bolts for the mounting kit that screws into the head.

No, I don't think it's possible to connect the individual connectors in the harness in the wrong order. Also, the kit comes color coded and with a great install diagram to match up to the stock wiring. I verified the colors on all wires and they appear to be accurate.

I don't know anyone first hand who has used the LQ9 coils connected to an HKS FCon V-Pro ECU. Also, the cam timing is not zeroed out so there is some overlap at idle.

The Mojo Performance kit is a plug on coil setup and I have read that without the resistance of the plug wires or resistor type spark plugs that there could be an issue as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...