Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ive just bought a r34 gtt and its got a fibreglass bonnet on it currently but im pretty sure its illegal with the vents facing backwars to the windscreen. I got the stock bonnet with it but it wont close i was wondering if anyone had this problem and theres an aftermarket replacment bonnet of some sort or would it be easier to do some fiber glassing and fill in the holes or even perhaps go to a pannel beater and see if they can bend the stock bonnet a little bit. At the moment its hitting the cover for the timing belt and i think if i get it a bit lower then that it might hit the turbo wont know until i try. Any help would be appreciated thanks guys

post-133477-0-29116900-1394615583_thumb.jpeg

Can always try washers between the bonnet and hinges to lift it a bit and adjust the latch. May help, may not seeing that the clearance problem is at the front, May not look the best either but will be good for engine bay airflow..May help. Cheers

  • Like 1

looked to me like a RB26 at a quick glance

unusual problem. Obviously why the other bonnet was put on.

Photo is deceptive - it appears the bonnet "should" close

without seeing for myself I got no help other than what XGTRX^ suggested.

/ReverseCowl/BognSpec.

That's odd.

Not an Rb30 bottom end is it? lol

Does your factory hood have the sound deadening on it?

if it does - remove it and see if that works.

I thought the same thing. Might be an RB30 bottom end?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

you can run without the top timing cover, just try removing it and you might get enough room. Washers on the back wont lift the front much at all. If its a 3026 there is not a lot of chance fitting but if it is a 25 or 26 block and is just hitting a little then taking the timing cover off could be enough.

you can run without the top timing cover, just try removing it and you might get enough room.

Doesnt that kill the CAS? IIRC you need spacers so the CAS sits the same distance away as it would with the cover in place.

The 1st time I put my engine back together I did it without the front cover. When I fired it up I heard a funny noise which turned out to be the cas or one of the bolts rubbing on the timing gear.

So yes you need the cover or you can run spacers like I do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...