Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Changing my OS Giken Quad to something a bit more forgiving as a DD.

The car is 338 AWKW and I do not expect to take it past 370 AWKW with the work I am having done soon , the quad is over kill for this HP.

Been looking at 2 types, Nismo C-spec twin copper mix and ATS Pro-Spec single , Carbon on carbon type, I think this is the model?

Any feedback or suggestions welcome before I have to confirm the work .

Nismo c spec.

Been in my car for 9 years, 40,000 kms, over 300 launches currently holding 472 rwkw. Good enough to fark up an OS GIKEN 5 speed. Lovely to drive.

Ordered yet? Lol

Fixed, :D

I have Exedy twin in my 32 which runs 11.1, has been there for 8 years of massive abuse and still going

Nismo twin was an Exedy twin

plenty of great clutches to get you there and hold for a long time.

Im currently running a OS giken TCS2B twin plate.. has the cool rattly twin plate sound, is ever so slightly heavier than the nismo twin pedal wise but thats because the nismo twin is too light for my tastes

Im also a big fan of the ATS carbon twin/triple plate as they both have a great pedal feel and progressive bite for daily duties.

These are both Puk style clutches where piggies Nismo is a full face organic disc.

Hope someone can understand my next question

I am changing my turbo from a T78 to a PT6262 and installing Poncams Bs, I wanted more power down low as it is a DD, the mechanic said it will spool much earlier and I will have a bit more torque down low.

I only have a problem on steep hill starts at times if I do not get it right , if ride it a little with the revs around 3k it is OK BUT not much room for error. Will this extra torque and earlier power from the new set up stop that lag when the clutch engages, even when ridding it, it lags.

Not sure if LAG is the right way to explain it, it feels like the revs die even if you are still trying to build them as the clutch engages?

I have not ordered anything yet but only have a short time before getting the other work done and have to make my mind up very soon.

Seems the C-Spec and the ATS carbon are both good choices and cannot go too far wrong with either of them.

Thanks for your collective help every time I need it :yes:

  • 1 month later...

post-52098-0-40385000-1399074197_thumb.jpgpost-52098-0-05167500-1399074491_thumb.jpg

plenty of great clutches to get you there and hold for a long time.

Im currently running a OS giken TCS2B twin plate.. has the cool rattly twin plate sound, is ever so slightly heavier than the nismo twin pedal wise but thats because the nismo twin is too light for my tastes

Im also a big fan of the ATS carbon twin/triple plate as they both have a great pedal feel and progressive bite for daily duties.

These are both Puk style clutches where piggies Nismo is a full face organic disc.

Hi Dave

Had the Turbo and Cams changed and the car ran great, the clutch was soooo much easier with a bit more low down power, a different car , you could feel it working like a car should not a heap of crap.

The brown is the new tune :yes:

I was really happy for 300Klms and lost the bloody tune :angry:

So have to start all over again, going to change the ECU , maybe Haltech or MoTech , do you know anything about them or recommend another brand for me to look into? :action-smiley-069:

Motec is over kill on a street car and costs a fortune to unlock every single option on them

Haltec will do everything you want and so will a few others, link is a good choice for the fact it goes into the original ecu case and looks factory

As long as they don't lock the ecu (password it) then as long as you have the correct software then you can't save it to your laptop

So if they do not lock it up with a password I can use the tune or whatever is put into the ECU?

Then you say if I have the correct password I CANNOT save it to my laptop, was this a TYPO ?

As I said, I am learning :)

Nismo c spec.

Been in my car for 9 years, 40,000 kms, over 300 launches currently holding 472 rwkw. Good enough to just an OS GIKEN 5 speed. Lovely to drive.

Ordered yet? Lol

Just drove back from Sydney after the mods and with some power down low it is easy to drive, I will see if I can post the new Dyno Tune

post-134126-0-55718000-1399183264_thumb.jpg

post-134126-0-88231800-1399183349_thumb.jpg

Yes sorry I meant to say you can save the tune to your laptop

I knew what you meant, I think I will get a cheap laptop to do only car stuff and not use it on the Internet as there are too many things that can stuff your computer up if you use the Internet, well I think so?

Afraid of the Internet? But on the Internet now! ;)

Not afraid of the Internet, just what it can let through to my computer and take a safer option , keep stuff that does not need the Internet away from it. :yes:

I have a seperate laptop for interweb banking and car tuning and another one for everything else, cause doesn't trust anything :D

Good thinking , I was going to use my laptop just for this but had to do a couple of OS trips and started using it for everything, now I cannot even log on to this Forum with my laptop (using PC now)and had to re register under a different name T R NISMO1 , so unless I have the shop clean it out I will get something else for banking and private info without going on other websites , paranoid , you bet :)

I clean 30 to 60 spams from my mailwasher every day, put them on my blacklist and spam list but they come again and again and it is bloody annoying :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...