Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch in my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440963-proxy-kill-switch/
Share on other sites

Random, but my old VL had a screw you had to hold your finger on while turning the key. I can PM the location to you of where it was, probably shouldnt announce it on here

As for how it was done... I have no idea. Screw with a wire off to somewhere. Car came like that so never bothered to check it out. It didnt have an alarm so must have just been utilising the stock electrics etc. Not sure it would even be an option on the VL.

It let everything turn on but the starter

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch in my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

This looks like a handy device. It suggests putting it in the fuel pump line but you could use in a number of ways to disable the car:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=704435597

The reason I don't like that ^ is it's another remote that you need to carry around. And either you're going to put that on your keys, which ultimately defeats the purpose because most cars are stolen via the keys; or you need to have it separate to your keys, in which case where do you keep it?

I would prefer a completely separate device, and I don't care if it takes me 5 minutes to start my car every time I drive it. The harder it is for me to start the car, the harder it will be for any potential thieves.

Thats what I liked about mine. There was no need to carry anything extra, no button, was just (AFAIK) earthing out a circuit to enable the start circuit

It was probably just the earth side of the starter signal (from the key) to the screw so it had no earth till you put your hand on the screw and then on the key (grounded through the key switch) then the car would start. If you didnt know where the screw was, the car wouldnt start.

BUT this way you could still bridge the solenoid on the starter moter and get it going etc. So its not the best way to do it. But you might be able to do something similiar with the fuel pump circuit.

This is just an idea, not sure it would work in a skyline, and it might not be what you are looking for

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

First things first, In the name of security, get rid of the turbo timer. They give thieving f#%ks the three wires needed to start your car!!!

In regards to kill switches, many years ago in a car I don't own anymore, I fitted one in the right hand air vent (between dash & drivers door) about 2 1\2" down the duct. It ment I had a 3" long thin bit of aluminum on my key ring. 3 attempts were made to steal it, but they never got it (it was a near mint XC Fairmont 378 stroker, top loader, 9" yada yada yada).

  • Like 1

The reason I don't like that ^ is it's another remote that you need to carry around. And either you're going to put that on your keys, which ultimately defeats the purpose because most cars are stolen via the keys; or you need to have it separate to your keys, in which case where do you keep it?

I would prefer a completely separate device, and I don't care if it takes me 5 minutes to start my car every time I drive it. The harder it is for me to start the car, the harder it will be for any potential thieves.

the tag can be replaced by smartphone, it it acts like an rfid device

is it similar to what viper has..?

Edited by enka
  • 3 months later...

Forgot about this thread.. something im still really keen on..

First things first, In the name of security, get rid of the turbo timer. They give thieving f#%ks the three wires needed to start your car!!!

Noted and have since done so.

you are really talking a custom solution. forget traditional car audio shops..

Ill have a hunt around for specialist I s'pose

As far as 'another remote', im imagining something like a supercheap club keytag sized myki thing that when within five meters of a receiver in cabin turns the immobilizer off. Start car like usual. Outside the radius, immobilizer on.

key pass over a sensor behind the dash

this could work Edited by c34Florry

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...