Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch in my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440963-proxy-kill-switch/
Share on other sites

Random, but my old VL had a screw you had to hold your finger on while turning the key. I can PM the location to you of where it was, probably shouldnt announce it on here

As for how it was done... I have no idea. Screw with a wire off to somewhere. Car came like that so never bothered to check it out. It didnt have an alarm so must have just been utilising the stock electrics etc. Not sure it would even be an option on the VL.

It let everything turn on but the starter

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch in my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

This looks like a handy device. It suggests putting it in the fuel pump line but you could use in a number of ways to disable the car:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=704435597

The reason I don't like that ^ is it's another remote that you need to carry around. And either you're going to put that on your keys, which ultimately defeats the purpose because most cars are stolen via the keys; or you need to have it separate to your keys, in which case where do you keep it?

I would prefer a completely separate device, and I don't care if it takes me 5 minutes to start my car every time I drive it. The harder it is for me to start the car, the harder it will be for any potential thieves.

Thats what I liked about mine. There was no need to carry anything extra, no button, was just (AFAIK) earthing out a circuit to enable the start circuit

It was probably just the earth side of the starter signal (from the key) to the screw so it had no earth till you put your hand on the screw and then on the key (grounded through the key switch) then the car would start. If you didnt know where the screw was, the car wouldnt start.

BUT this way you could still bridge the solenoid on the starter moter and get it going etc. So its not the best way to do it. But you might be able to do something similiar with the fuel pump circuit.

This is just an idea, not sure it would work in a skyline, and it might not be what you are looking for

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

First things first, In the name of security, get rid of the turbo timer. They give thieving f#%ks the three wires needed to start your car!!!

In regards to kill switches, many years ago in a car I don't own anymore, I fitted one in the right hand air vent (between dash & drivers door) about 2 1\2" down the duct. It ment I had a 3" long thin bit of aluminum on my key ring. 3 attempts were made to steal it, but they never got it (it was a near mint XC Fairmont 378 stroker, top loader, 9" yada yada yada).

  • Like 1

The reason I don't like that ^ is it's another remote that you need to carry around. And either you're going to put that on your keys, which ultimately defeats the purpose because most cars are stolen via the keys; or you need to have it separate to your keys, in which case where do you keep it?

I would prefer a completely separate device, and I don't care if it takes me 5 minutes to start my car every time I drive it. The harder it is for me to start the car, the harder it will be for any potential thieves.

the tag can be replaced by smartphone, it it acts like an rfid device

is it similar to what viper has..?

Edited by enka
  • 3 months later...

Forgot about this thread.. something im still really keen on..

First things first, In the name of security, get rid of the turbo timer. They give thieving f#%ks the three wires needed to start your car!!!

Noted and have since done so.

you are really talking a custom solution. forget traditional car audio shops..

Ill have a hunt around for specialist I s'pose

As far as 'another remote', im imagining something like a supercheap club keytag sized myki thing that when within five meters of a receiver in cabin turns the immobilizer off. Start car like usual. Outside the radius, immobilizer on.

key pass over a sensor behind the dash

this could work Edited by c34Florry

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
    • And now the bloody flapper is jammed slightly open. Lazy as all f**k in 3rd-5th (very hard to convince it to make much boost before you run out of revs), but will make 12 psi in 1st, which shouldb't be possible with a 5 psi spring and controller set to <10 psi. Methinks I'm lucky it jammed where it did, rather than fully closed. It's actually a well weird situation. Careful examination of what's happening in the back of that housing when the gearbox comes out and all the other stuff (injectors, AFM retune) is supposed to be done, next week.
×
×
  • Create New...