Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah cheers guys.. One opinion I've been given is 24psi.. But I don't see how that could be the case as long as the spring tension etc is right and you aren't revving it stupidly high you shouldn't get any valve float (which seems to be the issue with these heads throwing shims),

Also I could probably find it somewhere but does anyone know what the biggest cams you can go without losing the vct

Edited by Huzqld

Yeah cheers guys.. One opinion I've been given is 24psi.. But I don't see how that could be the case as long as the spring tension etc is right and you aren't revving it stupidly high you shouldn't get any valve float (which seems to be the issue with these heads throwing shims),

Also I could probably find it somewhere but does anyone know what the biggest cams you can go without losing the vct

Poncams but why are you doing cams anyway? Usually a lot of other priorities for the dollar.
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Hey guys I have gone ahead with this neo30 build. Instead of starting a new thread I'll just ask in this one.

Have just setup the timing belt with one idler and a tensioner (one above water pump). All the marks line up pretty well. Is it worth while getting an Adjustable cam-gear for the exhaust side?

I'll be keeping VCT so guessing I dont need anything for inlet side

(Standard cams to start with)

Cheers

Ian

Edited by Huzqld

Hey guys I have gone ahead with this neo30 build. Instead of starting a new thread I'll just ask in this one.

Have just setup the timing belt with one idler and a tensioner (one above water pump). All the marks line up pretty well. Is it worth while getting an Adjustable cam-gear for the exhaust side?

I'll be keeping VCT so guessing I dont need anything for inlet side

(Standard cams to start with)

Cheers

Ian

I have a spare VCT ring (good for dialing in cams on 30's) for the intake side if you would like to purchase. Apparently they have about 4 deg of movement.

  • 2 weeks later...

If it was me id do 260 type b poncams/ neo head/Precision 6466 T4 /e85, comp in the low 9's

the only trans that won't explode would be a glide or a Th400.

thats a combo id sell to a customer wanting the best of both worlds

Id prefer a neo head over a 26 head as it would come up quicker on a torque converter due to inlet manifold design

and i bet it would make more power under the curve making it a better street proposition

its a better street deal all round

Need to run into the 8s to even start to justify a 26 head

cheers

darren

Cheers Darren

I've already got the 35/40 from my sohc setup (it's a VL) and a re401a auto. I Got the manifold with a heap of parts and it has t3 flange so later I'll upgrade the turbo and manifold or just get flange changed. I plan on putting some type b poncams in it but would just like to see the difference from std cams.

Close to 9:1 comp

Specs of motor

Spool I beams

Wiseco pistons

Asr 8.5l sump

Arp main and head studs

N1 oil pump with billet gears and crank collar

Cpc plenum

Steam pipe manifold

Standard head besides springs and retainers

Ross balancer

Ian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...