Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah cheers guys.. One opinion I've been given is 24psi.. But I don't see how that could be the case as long as the spring tension etc is right and you aren't revving it stupidly high you shouldn't get any valve float (which seems to be the issue with these heads throwing shims),

Also I could probably find it somewhere but does anyone know what the biggest cams you can go without losing the vct

Edited by Huzqld

Yeah cheers guys.. One opinion I've been given is 24psi.. But I don't see how that could be the case as long as the spring tension etc is right and you aren't revving it stupidly high you shouldn't get any valve float (which seems to be the issue with these heads throwing shims),

Also I could probably find it somewhere but does anyone know what the biggest cams you can go without losing the vct

Poncams but why are you doing cams anyway? Usually a lot of other priorities for the dollar.
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Hey guys I have gone ahead with this neo30 build. Instead of starting a new thread I'll just ask in this one.

Have just setup the timing belt with one idler and a tensioner (one above water pump). All the marks line up pretty well. Is it worth while getting an Adjustable cam-gear for the exhaust side?

I'll be keeping VCT so guessing I dont need anything for inlet side

(Standard cams to start with)

Cheers

Ian

Edited by Huzqld

Hey guys I have gone ahead with this neo30 build. Instead of starting a new thread I'll just ask in this one.

Have just setup the timing belt with one idler and a tensioner (one above water pump). All the marks line up pretty well. Is it worth while getting an Adjustable cam-gear for the exhaust side?

I'll be keeping VCT so guessing I dont need anything for inlet side

(Standard cams to start with)

Cheers

Ian

I have a spare VCT ring (good for dialing in cams on 30's) for the intake side if you would like to purchase. Apparently they have about 4 deg of movement.

  • 2 weeks later...

If it was me id do 260 type b poncams/ neo head/Precision 6466 T4 /e85, comp in the low 9's

the only trans that won't explode would be a glide or a Th400.

thats a combo id sell to a customer wanting the best of both worlds

Id prefer a neo head over a 26 head as it would come up quicker on a torque converter due to inlet manifold design

and i bet it would make more power under the curve making it a better street proposition

its a better street deal all round

Need to run into the 8s to even start to justify a 26 head

cheers

darren

Cheers Darren

I've already got the 35/40 from my sohc setup (it's a VL) and a re401a auto. I Got the manifold with a heap of parts and it has t3 flange so later I'll upgrade the turbo and manifold or just get flange changed. I plan on putting some type b poncams in it but would just like to see the difference from std cams.

Close to 9:1 comp

Specs of motor

Spool I beams

Wiseco pistons

Asr 8.5l sump

Arp main and head studs

N1 oil pump with billet gears and crank collar

Cpc plenum

Steam pipe manifold

Standard head besides springs and retainers

Ross balancer

Ian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...