Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last few day finally got around to pulling out my engine, has been a long time coming, car has been sitting since last November, I pulled it off the road due to having a feeling something wasn't right, and I don't drive it unless it 100%, anywho just got the head off which is actually looking really good as previous owner spent 5k on a head service blah blah blah, in 2010. But here are some pics, I think I made the right decision, not looking to nice in there, opinions?post-27243-13986900576505_thumb.jpgpost-27243-13986900790877_thumb.jpgpost-27243-13986900945606_thumb.jpgpost-27243-13986901074043_thumb.jpgpost-27243-13986901234217_thumb.jpg

Im looking but cant see whatever your seeing, bores and pistons look OK, stock pistons, some uneven carbon build up is all that my eyes spotted, nothing drastic though.

What am i supposed to have seen or missed?

  • Like 1

Ok, so if that's it. She'll be sweet to chuck back together then and continue to use for how long? That's why I'm asking the question! It looks like it has seen better days! But if it looks fine I should chuck the head back on, strap on the single and here we come 28psi! Or rebuild before something goes bang, or decides to poke it's head out the side of the block, it's more of a question then a statement.

See how at the end of my post it says, opinions?. That's where you gurus come in and tell me your opinions, does it look like it's heading for retirement, or just out the engine build room ready for another 24years. Seriously wonder why the bloody forum is dying, it's coz the forums stalkers who have to show they know everything, and are above everyone who doesn't know as much....should make this a joint forum with commodore owners,

Ive heard those O5U pistons are best for high boost, so 28psi on a big frame like gt42 will be a walk in the park. Just scrape off the carbon and polish up the top of those pistons with some autosol and it will be like brand new again.

^^Agreed, not sure where that came from.

Anyway, I would suggest running a bit more conservative boost if you want that stock engine to last.

Why did you pull it apart anyway? Was there definitive evidence of it needing attention?

See how at the end of my post it says, opinions?. That's where you gurus come in and tell me your opinions, does it look like it's heading for retirement, or just out the engine build room ready for another 24years. Seriously wonder why the bloody forum is dying, it's coz the forums stalkers who have to show they know everything, and are above everyone who doesn't know as much....should make this a joint forum with commodore owners,

I think posters have done the opposite to what you are complaining about. They have not made definitive pronouncements about your engine or pretend to know whether it will last another 200,000km at 500hp on the basis of a posted photo. They just say they can't see any obvious major fault. Apart from looking down the bores there are objective tests you can do - compression test, leakdown test, actually measure the bores for wear and out of round, feel for piston movement up and down or side to side.

  • Like 1

Couldn't hurt to re do all gaskets and flush ecerything while you're there. Only thing to worry about would be the goo in I think the second pic near the water jackets? I've never fully had any rb motor apart before so I could be wrong but nobody likes sludge

5 and 6 look cleaner than the rest - could that be because of leaner running due to the stock plenums propensity to push a bit more air in the rear cylinders, or am i reading too much into it.

See how at the end of my post it says, opinions?. That's where you gurus come in and tell me your opinions, does it look like it's heading for retirement, or just out the engine build room ready for another 24years. Seriously wonder why the bloody forum is dying, it's coz the forums stalkers who have to show they know everything, and are above everyone who doesn't know as much....should make this a joint forum with commodore owners,

wtf

Check the Cyl wall for scarring since you are there already. you cant really see anything at the top since you just see the cyl wall and piston crown.

See how at the end of my post it says, opinions?. That's where you gurus come in and tell me your opinions, does it look like it's heading for retirement, or just out the engine build room ready for another 24years. Seriously wonder why the bloody forum is dying, it's coz the forums stalkers who have to show they know everything, and are above everyone who doesn't know as much....should make this a joint forum with commodore owners,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...