Rb26 In Gts4

[MJTru]

Hi I just started my car and I notice after about 15 minutes of idle a red light came on right under the oil presaure gauge its tye same gauge but there is a light right under the zero mark. Is this a oil temp light???

Also what Canada cause the oil temp to het so hot at idle. I have a grex oil cooler with thermostate build inside. When I feel tye actual oil cooler its not hot but warm. The oil filter is a bit hotter than the oil cooler core.

[KiwiRS4T]

Hi I just started my car and I notice after about 15 minutes of idle a red light came on right under the oil presaure gauge its tye same gauge but there is a light right under the zero mark. Is this a oil temp light???

Also what Canada cause the oil temp to het so hot at idle. I have a grex oil cooler with thermostate build inside. When I feel tye actual oil cooler its not hot but warm. The oil filter is a bit hotter than the oil cooler core.

What do you call hot? Do you have an oil temp gauge? The oil cooler is set to open at about 86degC but it is never completely closed allowing a small amount of flow so that would account for the oil cooler radiator being somewhat warm. BTW why are you idling your car for 15 minutes? That light could be an oil pressure warning light - what pressure does it show after 15 minutes of idling?

[MJTru]

Hmm. I just left the car to cool down for about an hour. Now tye red light is off. Im at it right now and will uodate again soon. Tye gts4 doesnt come with an oil temp gauage like the gtrs. I think. I dont see one

[Sinista32]

What does the oil pressure gauge run at idle and whilst running at say 3000rpm

I don't believe it is Oil Temp light it is an Oil pressure failure light.

1. Perhaps oil pressure sender or oil pressure sensor failure

2. or the biggie a serious oil pressure issue

[Sinista32]

Also when was the last time you serviced the car ?

Maybe worthwhile dropping and replacing the oil and oil filter.

Even run a quality engine flush through it whilst changing the oil/filter.

Edit: Just read some of your other topics

Looks like your building an engine with your clearance questions, after market sump and aftermarket cams

All bets are off on the info I've posted above

Edited June 13, 2014 by Sinista32

[blind_elk]

As Sinista said, that light is the "Oh $hiT!" light, as in "Oh $hiT!, no oil pressure!"

Have you checked the oil level in the sump?

[Sinista32]

IF it is indeed a recently built engine with an extended sump.

Check the oil pick-up/scavenging as it may have dropped off.

something blocked somewhere between sump, pump, filter

crank, bearings, collar, pump, etc... such a big list

or simple like the sensor

released air from the oil cooler ?

I got NFI

[MJTru]

Thanks for all the info guys. But I had the car running and the light isnt coming on anymore. Its a fresh build. What stumped me was at idle around 850rpms the oil pressure was at half way on the gauge and the light was on. I cut the car off and restart it. It was still on butbtye gauge went to half. This is why I thought it had nothing to do with pressure and thought it might have been a temp light. Makes sense now that it the zero oil pressure light. I wounder what happened. Cause its not coming on anymore and how can it come on and the gauge was at half way mark. I think half way mark is 4.

[MJTru]

I didnt release the air from the oil cooler tho. I pulled the cas sensor and crank the motor with no spark plugs in it to receive drag on the starter. So I crank the motor off and on untill oil was in the cooler. Then I started it up.

Edited June 14, 2014 by MJTru

[blind_elk]

It could be a faulty sender. The warning lamp switch is permanently earthing the pressure switch to show the warning light.

Another remote possibility is an incorrect oil filter.

[Sinista32]

could be the warning light is for + and - oil pressure. i.e. too much or too little

seems it's resolved.

KEEP AN EYE ON IT THO !

[MJTru]

Since it happened I've been keeping an eye on tye oil pressure gauge religiously. But tye light never came back on. I haven't driven tye car as yet. But will be very copious about it. Im overhauling my front suspension before I take it for a drive but ive been lettingbthe motor idle every day on and of. For the first day it smoked a little but now I notice its stopped smoking tye light blue smoke. I believe that the light blue smoke is oil. I guess the oil rings are now worn in. Or seated. I didnt bore the block because it was in great shape.

[GTSBoy]

Um........this is a new engine right? Idling and new engines are baaaaad.. Mmkay?

[MJTru]

Um........this is a new engine right? Idling and new engines are baaaaad.. Mmkay?

What you mean GTSBoy idling a new engine is bad. Hmmm. Im lost Mmkay. Kml:lol: Edited June 15, 2014 by MJTru

[MJTru]

I just finished looking it up. I guess its time for light loads at different speeds. So I wont start it anymore. I need to drive it and induce a vacume to seat the rings. Thanks for the indirect explanation.

[scotty nm35]

You need to drive it harder, and get some boost pressure under the ring to force it into the cross hatch hard. That way it will file the rings down and bed them in well, making a good ring seal. Usually done on the dyno.

[ido09s]

Thats where i differ, i drove ours easy for the first 3000klms and we have little to no blowby at 25psi of boost from a 6766. Makes near 500rwkw and is a beast of an engine. I know people who drove them hard and ended up with shit boxes that had nothing but issues. I guess every one is different

MJTru, if i were you i would be getting a quality aftermarket oil pressure gauge and hooking it up to check the oil pressure. Just pull the standard switch out and put the gauge in there. The standard gauge is ok for knowing when something major fails but for a fresh engine to be setting off lights like this i think i would be checking it further to confirm 100% there are no issues.

[scotty nm35]

Perhaps they were shitbox engines when they were machined, which is the most important part after all. Surely you had your car tuned before that 3000k though Brad?

My stock 200,000k engine has little to no blowby, and I have been thrashing buggery out of it for years... What does that mean?

OP, The standard gauges are crap and known to fail. If you are trusting in them you are mad. Get some decent aftermarket gauges in there, and if you don't like a dash full of dials like me there are plenty of other options. I went with the Informeter Touch.

[ido09s]

Doubtful as they all came out of the same workshop, built by the same person. Machined by the same shop using the same techniques. The only difference i can think of is that we run GReddy pistons and rings, the rest ran CP's. Who knows

Our car was tuned prior to the rebuild. Its been in the car for damn, 9 years almost now and still going strong. I was going to put head studs in it but not going to bother until the government figures out what will happen with ethanol based fuels and the cleaner fuels grants. Not much use if ethanol will be dead in Australia because they pull the funding

Edited June 18, 2014 by ido09s

[MJTru]

Doubtful as they all came out of the same workshop, built by the same person. Machined by the same shop using the same techniques. The only difference i can think of is that we run GReddy pistons and rings, the rest ran CP's. Who knows

Our car was tuned prior to the rebuild. Its been in the car for damn, 9 years almost now and still going strong. I was going to put head studs in it but not going to bother until the government figures out what will happen with ethanol based fuels and the cleaner fuels grants. Not much use if ethanol will be dead in Australia because they pull the funding

Mate I agree with you. Run it hard kml. Like where does that idea come from. But I do agree in the whole theory of the process of braking in the motor. I do believe that today's technology can produce a motor that you can just beat off the bat or run hard, But caution is the prevention for cure. Lol. Its funny cause all you mentioned I did already. The aftermarket gauge and all. As well as the oil temperature gauge. Please dont get me wrong guys I thank all of you for you invaluable opinions. This mentality is what makes this site so strong. The motor sounds strong and I cant wait for my radiator aftermarket radiator to reach and drive the car.

I will keep everyone posted.