Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car was running fine, then decided to finally coat the caps on top of the injectors, put them all back, new stainless bolts and now black caps and its running rough.

ive narrowed it down to no6, as when removing injector plugs one by one its only one that does not kill or affect the rough idle, it has 11.72v to the plug.

How do i check the injector is firing?

Why would it now not be working after a simple take cap off paint replace bolts and reassemble?

I did at the same time take off cas and timing belt cover to paint exposed vct end as it now shows through the rb26 timing cover, but this idle is way rougher than just the cas being a smidge out and changing the cas position makes little to no dif, i had marked the cas up before removing its always been marked as it gets removed occasionally for various things...

Any help appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445103-one-injector-possibly-not-firing/
Share on other sites

Ok ive confirmed its not the injectors, swapped a couple around and still same issue.

Checked plugs, one was sooty the other was wet, changed plugs, still same issue,

Thought perhaps painting the vct end of the cam has done something, loosened four small bolts on front of vct and had a look tightened them back up car is running much better but still a bit rough.

So, what do people think has happened, painting the vct has caused it to not work correctly.

I did notice the exhaust sounded weird when running rough and atmo bov noise sounded different now that i loosened the bolts on vct and tightened them again sound is back to normal beside it still running rough..

Ive got rb26 cam and timing belt covers, i cut a hole in the timing belt cover to allow the vct intake cam end to poke thru, since ive be dressing up the engine bay ive pajnted case and now the intake cam end, which is the vct actuator (not sure what to call that), so i painted the part that pikes thru the 26 timing belt cover for cosmetics, but it seems in doing that it may of created this prob.

Ive only noticed it as i painted it around the dame period as painting the caps on the injectors, it doesnt get driven much..

So when ive loosen and retighten the four bolts on the the end of the intake came, vct end part it has made a difference to the rough idle..

Hence why i thinking painting it has interfered with its operation, are the four bolts on the the end of the intake cam (vct) needing to be to torqued to a specific number or are you not supposed to loosen and retighten them at all...

This is something ive not done previously so im shooting in the dark here...

Your help is much appreciated...

Yes I agree with above^^^^^

Please send photo of engine bay. do you think you might have painted a contact for one of the injector power supply. Next did you remove the vtc timing sprocket to paint it. ??:huh::huh:

Looking at it I doubt that's the issue but as it only happened after you painted it must be, all I would do is grind the paint off under the bolt heads just incase it's some weird earthing issue and change back to mild steel bolts instead of stainless . I had an issue like this years ago with an audi and it's hard to accept sometimes but the issue wasn't there before so you have to start again unfortunately

I'm using stainless bolts on my side feed injector caps, no issues at all

As for the VCT actuator which you have painted, It shouldn't really effect the performance of the car at all wether you painted it on the car or off. By the looks of it you painted it off the car, but I could be wrong. That bit there is all mechanical, the only problem you could have would be oil leaking from the front cover.

Seems odd that Something happened when you played with that cover. Maybe there is a problem with the VCT somewhere, maybe in the solenoid or wiring. Have you tried unplugging the VCT and seeing how the car runs? I get the feeling you might have already mentioned that you have done this but just in case

What ECU are you running/whens the last time it was tuned?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...