Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will always get used to the power and want to chase more, it's just the way things are.

Remember that feeling of getting into your 200kw car and thinking it was quick? Well that's what 300kw will feel like for the first few months.

I'm running 250rwkw and to be honest it's really good for the street because I have a responsive turbo. I find it hard to even use 250kw on the street without breaking laws.

  • Like 1

You will always get used to the power and want to chase more, it's just the way things are.

Remember that feeling of getting into your 200kw car and thinking it was quick? Well that's what 300kw will feel like for the first few months.

I'm running 250rwkw and to be honest it's really good for the street because I have a responsive turbo. I find it hard to even use 250kw on the street without breaking laws.

Exactly

I spent part of today in a Mclaren MP4-12C, i can tell you if it lays the power down well like the Mclaren, even 441Kw can get boring after a while. :)

Something with big cams and a big turbo hit of power can feel far more quicker and scarier, even though it wont be doing 0-100 in under 3 seconds......

I had 380 in the old 33, it was enough to destroy gearboxes but after a while even 380 is boring.

Was fun at the track and drags though.

I would say if you are looking for a powerful car you need at least over 400 with lots of torque all coming on by a least 4500.

Just remember that at that power level most of the drive train becomes a consumable.

As for chasing power, my latest car has around 85kwaw but handles like a go cart, and I think it's much more fun that way.

That +100kws will cost you around $3,500 (or more) depending on what modifications you have now.

He speaks the truth!

-standalone ECU

-fuel pump

-injectors

-intake

-exhaust

-intercooler

-AFM (depending on ECU)

And a tune of course.

Plus other bits I probably missed.

If you want 400kw for later then ditch that RB25 and get a 2J Supra, else you will have your money disappearing really fast once things break in the r33. Or have a built RB25 and still waste as much cash. Thats what my plans are for later once I get hold of a nice RZ Supra, not a big fan of the bulbuous looks though..

300kw on the street is quite quick. .. but you will still be done by Evos, WRX etc.

On the track or drag strip you will have to do some serious work on the tyres and suspension etc to take advantage of more power.

I never wanted 300kw to hose off anyone, it was the pure sound and ability to lay rubber like butter when the torque comes on, Evo's and

WRX's can be quick but sound boring to me.

Go to the drags and even a 10sec V8 or EVO gets boring, watching a pissed off RB is more exciting.

Edited by AngryRB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...