Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Which ever style of these cars you prefer are both good choices. If you haven't had an evo or similar before you should try one out.

You'll find that the evo is quick around town etc but there's a lot of very quick evos & gtrs that are quicker

Breasts is an easier choice for sure!

Seems like it's been on your mind a while?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/365045-r34gtt-vs-evo78/

Give one a go, or wind the 34 up to 350ish ;)

My 2c. I have both cars and prefer the skyline.

The evo with less power is a few seconds faster than my skyline around a track.

The evo has superior response and acceleration, but the feel (steering/chassis) isn't as good as the skyline (I'd say less honest with all the electrics).

I find the skyline more enjoyable on the street (love engine/exhaust noise, better interior, slowish/deliberate long throw gearshifts, non-stiff suspension).

The skyline requires more effort to punt around a track quickly and I appreciate that aspect, along with watching better drivers drive rwd skylines quickly!

I noticed the factory diff always spin one wheel much harder then the other on take off just like in the clip. Happens to mine as well, Its alright once in third. Rolling start might give the skyline a better chance of winning.

Yes you can go past GTRs because GTSTs and Evos are easier and cheaper to work on . If you are rich and pay people to work on them GTRs are fine , they lack cubes for their mass buts that's life .

Better feel and balance in a GTST/GTt than an Evo in good nic , no way in hell . Far more feel in an Evo 6 GSR steering handling braking wise that a GTS25T , I have both and they both have Pilot Sport Rubber (PS3 Evo) (PS2/PSS R33) . Both have light 17x8.5 wheels , the 33 has the full SK Bilstein kit and the 6 has Whiteline bars and Evo 9 rear Bilstein struts .

Evos are closer to GTRs than GTST/GTT package wise with less comfort and excluding outright power/speed probably better than a GTR in the twisties . Driven wheels grip better than "idlers" and Skylines have a large portion of their engine out past the front wheels . Aside from the lack of FrWd that's why M3s tended to be better handling straight six performance cars than Skylines . Look how far back the engine is in relation to the front wheels , and how much closer to 50/50 weight distribution they have front to rear .

GTR isn't as bad as the original Audi Quatros were but they were both the result of fitting 4WD into an originally RWD or FrWd platform .

Evos are pretty much the same as Lancers back to the front doors except the floor pan from that point is totally different . Ralliart designed that not MHI , up to E6 anyway , so they had lots of freedoms with rear driveline suspension brakes wheels etc .

The thing to remember is that Evo was designed to be a Tarmac Rally basis where Skylines were open road touring cars - GT . It takes something special to be agile and sharp on slippery constantly changing surfaces and they live to be thrown around with everything spinning ALL the time . I was in my mid 20s when GMS raced R32s in Grp A and I don't remember seeing them spinning all 4 most of the time . I do remember them looking smaller and more nimble than the V8 powered taxis and Sierras were really the only serious opposition . Also it wasn't always wet and slicks are the gun thing in the dry .

If you had the same tyres and tarmac suspension , and the same power with equal top speed gearing a GTR probably isn't any better than an Evo , possibly on a fast circuit because of its extra capacity but on one with hairpins and S bends my monies on the Evo .

IMO for dedicated drag race a tubbed RWD is the go .

A RWD Skyline if you punch it everywhere would better suit the "skid/drift brigade" than an Evo because at the same speeds the Evo does more easily and neatly . I guess it's this trying to find limits that some people like . They are higher in Evo and GTR which means going faster to find them - way way faster than speed limits allow and I say again when you lose it at that kind of pace the crashes are often monumental .

You often hear people say AWD cars like Evos are so easy to drive that they make a mug look good . The reality is they get out of shape at higher cornering speeds and when they do they are harder to recover so no the technology doesn't automatically save a goose from themselves .

A .

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...