Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have 5 Michelin race slicks (made in France) available for sale.

They are off a Porsche cup car and haven't done many laps as there is plenty of meat left on them.

I haven't fitted these yet as I don't have use for them anymore and they have been stored in dry shed under cover.

I get 3 full time attack track days out of these around 32 laps per track day (96 laps in total)

I use these on my r33 Gtr with 18x10+15 rims. They fit under the guards no probs and will fit under R34 Gtr guards as well or anything else you can squeeze em under.

New these are $800-$900 each.

Im chasing $400 for the 5 of them. I need em gone as they are in the way at home!

They are ready to race!

Pick up available from southside of Brisbane.

Interstate buyers I can help with shipping @ your cost. I use e-go.com.au

Drop your lap times down by as much as 4 seconds!

Prefer phone contact 0452-389-598

post-70521-0-26978100-1405452145_thumb.jpg

post-70521-0-33101000-1405452178_thumb.jpg

post-70521-0-27211700-1405452199_thumb.jpg

post-70521-0-98769200-1405452290_thumb.jpg

post-70521-0-01074400-1405452310_thumb.jpg

post-70521-0-75703100-1405452368_thumb.jpg

post-70521-0-99063100-1405452387_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445688-race-tyres-michelin-slicks/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

30-65-18

(300mm, making the tread block 290-295 or something)

That's just how michelin do their race tyres.

S7D would make these SOFTS for anyone wondering.

Yes as PN-Mad stated as above ^^ that's the way Michelin do their tyre sizes.

If you want more info or prices on shipping please get in touch with the mobile number provided.

Still available :D

  • 7 months later...

Nizmo_man, you will need a minimum of a 10inch rim

They might fit under R32 guards but you will need to pull out the plastic inner guards at the front and at least roll your rear guards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...