Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

helloooo,

here is another debatable topic and a question thats has more than likely been asked before, I have a 1993 S1 R33 GTS that i have fitted the stock turbo kit from the GTS-T, the car has been fine for the last 6 months no issues, But now i wanna up the boost from the stock 5psi to around 10psi nothing crazy. My question is, the stock system runs a BOV and a internal waste together, now i have only been running the internal waste gate but i have just ordered a Greddy BOV and want to know if i can just run the BOV and not the waste gate (still leaving the actuator on there waste gate just not running the vacuum hose to it). going off what i understand it should be fine but is there anything im missing ????

Edited by shizz

BOV are used so when you change gear you dont back up your turbo and essentially keep it spooled when shifing, so why run a internal gate as well or is the gate just a fail safe so if the bov dosnt work you wont over boost your car?

BOV are used so when you change gear you dont back up your turbo and essentially keep it spooled when shifing, so why run a internal gate as well or is the gate just a fail safe so if the bov dosnt work you wont over boost your car?

Please, please, please, follow the advice about googling how/why a wastegate does what it does.

BOV and wastegate bear no relationship to each other except that you will find them both on a turbo car.

so i come here to ask a question because im unsure and know one has told me so how am i ment to know and i get told to google and look at different forums. it might be a retarded question if u know how stuff work but some people dont and thats why they come her but yet you ask a question and people just laugh at you for sounding like a dick.

so i come here to ask a question because im unsure and know one has told me so how am i ment to know and i get told to google and look at different forums. it might be a retarded question if u know how stuff work but some people dont and thats why they come her but yet you ask a question and people just laugh at you for sounding like a dick.

Yes.

spend money on a proper diff...

Then again, 10 years ago I would have invested in a BOV (I actually did on my 1st car) - dumbest thing I ever did...

Don't talk sense. No one will listen with the BOV debate.

so i come here to ask a question because im unsure and know one has told me so how am i ment to know and i get told to google and look at different forums. it might be a retarded question if u know how stuff work but some people dont and thats why they come her but yet you ask a question and people just laugh at you for sounding like a dick.

1. Learn how to construct sentences properly. It will help you in life.

2. You don't have basic understanding of how a turbocharged engine's components work together. This means you'll have to research them yourself in your time. No one here will school you in that, so have fun Googling.

3. Sell your after market blow-off valve and spend the money elsewhere (e.g. better tyres).

4. Look in the DIY section for grounding the standard boost solenoid.

OR, ignore everything I said and do whatever you want, because it's your money and your car.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...