Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tried searching in this forums and within the first page i was down to 2008.. not sure if i get it right but oh well.

From my research, the tomei kit is the cheaper of the bunch but also the one who doesn't have a full counterweight crankshaft ( i believe ? or is it 8 vs 12 ) and have their recess cooling channel on the piston.

The BC crower kit is about 1k$ more but feature approx. 60cc more and a better crankshaft from what I've read.

HKS step 1 feel a bit over-pricey. I know tho, the step 3 is quality but very expensive.

Spool import kit seems like a copy/samething as the BC crower, only thing the BC is cheaper and easier to supply for me.

There's also another aussie brand ( sorry, i have a blank) that claim to make the best stroker because the lenght of the rod is the same as factory, but I remember it was like 2-3k more than the tomei kit. Wondering how important this specification is or.. in the real world, it doesnt really make a difference.

Feel free to correct me or guide me through option.

BTW, my motor was alreadly forged to 86.5mm but we believe we need to redo the ringland and i thought.. well might as well stroke it this time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446353-budget-stroker-kit-tomei-or-bc/
Share on other sites

Don't forget that by the time you get anything in from overseas you'll be paying Extra postage, customs costs and 10% extra GST on it.

Presuming you're in Aus at least.

Edit: rereading your post it looks like you're in the states. Makes it different I guess.

Don't forget that by the time you get anything in from overseas you'll be paying Extra postage, customs costs and 10% extra GST on it.

Presuming you're in Aus at least.

Edit: rereading your post it looks like you're in the states. Makes it different I guess.

No worries, I appreciate your input, but yeah, i already took all the shipping/tax factor in account.

LOL, if RIPS charge 20-30k when everything is taken into account (shipping overseas, installation, fitting 4wd plate etc etc), without looking any further, I doubt this rb34 is close ot be as easy as a std stroker rb28-29 LOL :)

So yeah.. A little too extreme for me :)

  • 2 weeks later...

bc and nitto strokers seem to be the fashion these days and are reasonably priced and alot of guys sell them. but the term "budget" and "stroker kit" dont seem very fitting in the same sentence together.

Personally id go either the bc or nitto kits. spool make some good stuff also, but its what you find best suited to you.

what power are you aiming for and what is the car being used for?

Have been running a Tomei 2.8 since 2005. Popped an oil pump in 2012 and put the crank back in.

There are for and against arguments for full counter and semi counter cranks.. In theory full counter are better, but, keep the revs sane and match everything up , does it matter?

You're after a "response" setup. If you need to rev more than 8500 rpm then you're doing it wrong.

I don't know where you get $20 - $30k for a Rips engine.

What are you going to pay for a Tomei stroker kit? They are way more expensive than a Rips block in NZ.

Just to compare NZ$9k buys you this from RIPS:

RB30 forged internal shortblock for 4WD with with adapter plate and pickup. Genuine RB30 block and crank, high quality forged pistons and billet rods, crack tested, straight tested, ground and grub screwed crank, full balancing, wide oil pump drive, ACL race bearings, acid dipped block with oil restrictors, torque plate bored and honed, decked, new brass frost plugs, all assembled and painted.

And that is more than just a stroker kit. Sure there is shipping on top but all the other extras are things you would have to do with your stroker kit as well.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...