Jump to content
SAU Community

The Fuel Pump Thread

The Mafia

By The Mafia,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

Simple... A small electric syphon pump. I considered going that way too until I realised a syphon works fine on a Y fitting inside the tank if your return has a high flow rate.

Any serious track car is probably running an under car surge tank too, keeps the fumes, fuel and danger out of the boot.

  • Replies 299
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

XKLABA
XKLABA

The one in Tims link looks good Do not get a Weldon ,lol my Weldon is an awesome piece of gear, great flow for low amps and will pretty much pump anything but should come with ear plugs And ear muff

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Yeh Peter, I have the 1500hp pump here I am still planning to fit to the Stagea. I saw their PWM output regs, they should work well together. Much better idea than running the PWM output from the Ha

GTRPSI
GTRPSI

Just found this interesting clip on the Fuelab 42402 pumps with the 52902 electronic regulators, nice to see a integrated package now, just set the base fuel pressure and walk away, no fiddling with f

Posted Images

Borci88 Veteran

Borci88

Posted
Posted

Simple... A small electric syphon pump. I considered going that way too until I realised a syphon works fine on a Y fitting inside the tank if your return has a high flow rate.

Any serious track car is probably running an under car surge tank too, keeps the fumes, fuel and danger out of the boot.

While that's probably an easy option, the cars in question I'm talking about (4 I know of), all run the same setup and don't have a jet/syphon pump. They run twin in tank pumps with a custom top hat that has two fuel lines running all the way to the fuel rail. All have been tracked and all have gotten low tanks and zero issues with surging / running out of fuel. Does this Jet Pump really work as well as we think it does?

33GTRV Mentor

33GTRV

Posted
Posted

I have an under car surge, 2 044s at near on full snot and it returns from the surge through the factory return. This set up at 13.8v should support over 1000hp on race gas qnd come bloody close on corn juice. It is fed from the stock location pump. It works because 1000's of people before us have developed systems and they're trial and error is well documented. Don't need to reinvent the wheel.

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

Does this Jet Pump really work as well as we think it does?

With an entirely in tank setup, if you try and push too much fuel through the syphon jet it will not work properly or at all.

Not to mention your fuel pressure goes out of control due to back pressure in the return line.

I'm using a pump jet on one side of a Y fitting inside the tank.

How well does it work? Well with the tank on empty and running both pumps, it was back to 1/4 after about 1-2 minutes of pump operation.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

I have an under car surge, 2 044s at near on full snot and it returns from the surge through the factory return. This set up at 13.8v should support over 1000hp on race gas qnd come bloody close on corn juice. It is fed from the stock location pump. It works because 1000's of people before us have developed systems and they're trial and error is well documented. Don't need to reinvent the wheel.

One problem, the 044's don't last on E85.

  • Like 1
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Been through 6 in total.

First failure was the primary pump got lazy. The secondary covered it when it come online. Picked it up by a fuel pressure gauge and AFR gauge.

Replaced both...

Second set,same thing.

Third set, can't really remember... But enough to crack it and throw it all in the bin.

044's DO NOT last under E85 conditions. If you don't have gauges and running them, you're asking for trouble.

  • 2 weeks later...
dr phil Collaborator

dr phil

Posted
Posted

Had a bad issue with high fuel pressure in my gt four with a Walbro e85 pump. My factory fuel return hose had a restrictor in it (scottynm35 has seen one in a S15 before). This was an R34 RB25DE model, I now have a Stagea DET engine in it.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
NISR32.5 Rising Star

NISR32.5

Posted
Posted

So did anyone end up using the Holley dominators?

What's the general consensus on a fuel system e85 compatible that will handle 450-500kw in a 32 Gtr. I wanna do it once and do it properly.

I've been advised to go a Holley dominator from the tuner, he said we can stage the pumps and run a sensor from the ecu to keep an eye on fuel flow. They have installed a few and he seems to like them but there is no long term usage at this stage.

The car currently has a nismo intank. Will be looking for a new pump to match with the new 1550 xpurts I will be getting.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So did anyone end up using the Holley dominators?

What's the general consensus on a fuel system e85 compatible that will handle 450-500kw in a 32 Gtr. I wanna do it once and do it properly.

I've been advised to go a Holley dominator from the tuner, he said we can stage the pumps and run a sensor from the ecu to keep an eye on fuel flow. They have installed a few and he seems to like them but there is no long term usage at this stage.

The car currently has a nismo intank. Will be looking for a new pump to match with the new 1550 xpurts I will be getting.

Stay away from the Holley dominator - They have had a high failure rate.

  • 2 months later...
Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I finally replaced my OEM in tank lift pump with a walbro 460ltr in tank. Quiet as a mouse :)

Had it on the dyno and we couldn't tune it with more than 15psi...as the boost increases and demands more fuel pressure - the fuel pressure was dropping off.

I am still running the OEM wiring harness with the added relay, however, as the pump draws up to 20amps, I was told that I need to run a thicker gauge wire direct from the battery to achieve 14v at full load.

My question is this (btw, it's an r32 gtr)...can I run the thicker gauge wire to the top of the 'top hat' on the fuel tank (i.e. direct to the Anderson plug) OR do I also need to replace the wiring between the fuel pump itself and the underside of the top hat? From memory, the underside of the top hat also runs an Anderson plug. Has anyone else running a walbro experienced similar voltage issues to myself? From memory, SIR RB runs a walbro in tank as well.

I'll also replace the fuel filter in the engine bay for piece of mind as this may be a catayst to drop in fuel pressure.

WantGTR Mentor

WantGTR

Posted
Posted

Have a 32 gtr and just replaced a walbro 255lph pump with a walbro 460. I also rewired the pump with 8 gauge wiring.

Previous pump on stock wiring was getting 8.8v on idle. New pump and rewire and now getting 13.3v at idle.

 

Walbro site has a table on voltages and lph rates. Interesting to look at. 

 

The pump shouldnt be dropping pressure. You either have a leak or a faulty fuel reg

 

  • Like 1
Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the feedback. Did you run 8 gauge to the top hat only (on top of the fuel tank) or did u go direct to the fuel pump? 

If I'm not getting the voltage I need, the fuel pressure will not be up for the task and this is what I am experiencing. My tuner is certain that this is the issue. My fuel reg was fine with my previous setup (i.e. OEM lift pump with external 044 which ran power direct from batt) so I don't think it's the fuel reg.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Archies Flame Grille Meet & Cruise to Kurnell

      By Matt Z · Posted

      Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...