Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well it was a rainy day didn't stop at all, well not enough to even dry the track out but went out and had fun anyways managed to keep it on the black stuff and had no spins.

had about 8 little moments but was a great learning curve, not sure on time's ill have to go through the footage but didn't break any records :)

the car ran great all day, temps were spot on 80 water and 100 oil. didn't have to worry about tyres but got the brakes nice and toasty a couple of times as i was doing to many consecutive hot laps HAHA

might looking into some better exiting ducts for the oil coolers by chopping up the front guards.

here are a couple of pic's will get the footage up later.

post-83704-0-66029200-1434617024_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-12180000-1434617026_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4

Here is a little bit of footage nothing spectacular nor breaking any records but still good fun and a great learning curve

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpF5fz8aec4&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdip6Y_rwRY&feature=youtu.be

Well I finally got some time to work on the 7 yesterday, started by repairing the front bar fixing the hole they made for a tow point and making a mould of the drivers side combination lamp housing as it was cut out to make way for some air filters/duct's.

post-83704-0-36529800-1436164532_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-13274600-1436164537_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-79315300-1436164544_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-45687500-1436164550_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-89701900-1436164558_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

and then the fun started cutting up the front bar...........

1st photo shows the stock hole on the right and the modified hole on the left
2nd photo shows the cut out's i made

3rd photo shows the 40mm gap i have enlarged it by

4th shows the oil cooler behind the cut out and the 5th shows with the piece put back in increasing the hole by 40mm

6th photo shows what it should look like once complete

post-83704-0-25113400-1436164666_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-17314100-1436164672_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-94957700-1436164684_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-06879200-1436164692_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-07989000-1436164874_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-08869200-1436165211_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Saturday arvo I finished off filling in with fibreglass and then a Mate and I spent majority of Sunday rubbing it back, had to refibreglass from the front as it had sunken in on one of the sections but otherwise looking good!!!.......... almost ready for highfill

post-83704-0-28572000-1437470725_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-01327900-1437470727_thumb.jpg

Yes it's going to be V mounted, was cheaper to buy this than even a core of the same size. so will just cut off the pipes and turn them around :)

ahh cool beans. Don't wait dat heat soak for the FD. Mazda messed up the cooling hardcore in the FD lol.

Well my pulley kit turned up on Friday so I could go ahead with fitting that, removing the air pump (5kg) and remove the center exhaust with the cat in it (13.8kg)
appon removing all the pulleys the only one that wasn't in the kit was the power steering idler pulley pulled it off to check it luckily I did as it still spun alright but sounded very dry, so i picked up a new one and pressed it in. Just waiting on a call the my straight pipe is ready for pick up.

then to move onto removing all the air pump pipes and block them all off with the emissions blanking of plates :)

post-83704-0-51343800-1438586633_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-77354700-1438586635_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-31871800-1438586636_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3

its a very nice car and you're doing it justice, but fark i would not have the patience or determination to replace/repair so many poorly implemented items.

i would probably bin the whole front end and start from scratch.

thankfully, its not my car.

If I had of known it would be so much drama with the solenoids/twin turbo and all the money I wasted in getting it running, I probably would've bit the bullet and went single straight away but hay you learn as you go.

and doing things on a budget makes you think outside of the box. it'll all be worth it in the end :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...