Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I've been taking a look around lately and since i'm not really into putting thousands under the hood of my car (aside from the required maintenance) i'm looking for some suggestions and ideas on some unique modifications that can be done to the looks, both interior and exterior that can be done on the R34 GT-T.

I don't want some huge GT wing or carbon fibre bonnet, I'm not talking about ricing the car, but I want some tasteful mod suggestions that can just make it stand out a little more that I'm an enthusiast without turning it into rice or having to put thousands into the performance.

Any suggestions would be great or examples of unique looks that have been done on some projects you've seen.

Thanks Guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447322-unique-mods-for-an-r34/
Share on other sites

um, good unique mods come from people with unique ideas and good taste.

your not gonna get these from asking others.

that being said, just check out what other peopele have and steal any good ideas you like.
imo good wheels make a car, good ride hight will start you off well. detail the hell out of the car, doing that will find all sorts of things to do like stripping things down repairing repainting, replacing.

i like this guys path.

http://guula.kuvat.fi/#/kuvat/Skyline+R34+Gtt-R/

  • Like 1

That modified cluster is a bit crusty with the 2 holes still in the clear cover.

Unique mods for an r34 usually suck. That's why they are unique mods. Pretty much all of the good ideas have been done....

The acceptable amount of mods to be considered a car enthusiast is 1 hellaflush sticker or equivalently gay sticker/s of your choosing.

Wheels and tyres for the exterior, and some nice ADR approved buckets seats. Less is best.....unless you like dildos......the gear shifter ones

  • Like 1

That modified cluster is a bit crusty with the 2 holes still in the clear cover.

Unique mods for an r34 usually suck. That's why they are unique mods. Pretty much all of the good ideas have been done....

Broadfields work is hardly crusty that was just an example of many, go check out his page there might be something you like.

that being said, just check out what other peopele have and steal any good ideas you like.

imo good wheels make a car, good ride hight will start you off well. detail the hell out of the car, doing that will find all sorts of things to do like stripping things down repairing repainting, replacing.

This. Little details make a big difference, fresh coat of paint and restore black plastics ect

imo good wheels make a car, good ride hight will start you off well. detail the hell out of the car, doing that will find all sorts of things to do like stripping things down repairing repainting, replacing.

for a 34 just this ^ 100%

Hardly unique but I do like my Origin boot lip and wing: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438115-how-to-install-boot-lip-and-roof-wing/

The cheap and easy to install rubber front lip made a difference too, IMO.

  • 1 month later...

How about installing an antenna like the one on those highway patrol cop cars, IMO cars with antennas look aggressive and serious

1J7A8078.jpg

Like this and notice his wide tyres as well,

For me i might get a little sticker on the side window of my favourite anime which is Higurashi or Madoka, NOW THATS JDM! :D

Edited by Elegant Skyline

Follow the Colin Chapman theory and add lightness.

Remake every single body panel in CF, then repaint it a stock colour, with the colour coats thin enough that if you get close you can still see the weave through it. Add decent suspension and lightweight forged wheels.

Zero engine modifications so no more power, but improved performance through your car now being much lighter, and improved handling through better suspension and lower unsprung weight..

Note: May cost bajillions of dollars.

  • Like 2

Follow the Colin Chapman theory and add lightness.

Remake every single body panel in CF, then repaint it a stock colour, with the colour coats thin enough that if you get close you can still see the weave through it. Add decent suspension and lightweight forged wheels.

Zero engine modifications so no more power, but improved performance through your car now being much lighter, and improved handling through better suspension and lower unsprung weight..

Note: May cost bajillions of dollars.

And...

Since Rays Duralumin wheel nuts being discontinued...

Carbon fibre prop shaft.

C/f rear wing, strut brace,...

Ti panel bolts...

Rear wiper removal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...